
CopyiightN^. 



CDEO^IGHT DEPOSIT. 




'EARTH NE'ER SHALL SEE SUCH SHIPS AGAIN" 

JOHN MASEFIELD 



A Sea I'rip in 


Clipper Ship Days 


BY 


MARY JN 


lATTHEWS BRAY 


^ARTIetVeRITAnJ] 


BOSTON 


RICHARD G. BADGER 


THE GORHAM PRESS 



Copyright, 1920, by Richard G. Badgrer 



All Rights Reserved 



n 



.3j 



MADE IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA 



The Gorham Press. Boston, U. S. A. 



©C!,Ao7()16i 



To 

My Father — The Captain 

Who made this Trip possible and successful 

and 

To My Sister 

Who Made it Cheerful and Homelike 



AUG 26 lb-2U 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

From Boston to New Orleans 9 

Ship National Eagle 27 

Sea Account 27 

New Orleans 30 

From New Orleans to Liverpool 40 

Ship National Eagle 46 

Sea Account 47 

Liverpool and London 49 

From England to India 63 

Around the Cape of Good Hope 63 

Ship National Eagle 79 

India 89 

The Ganges River 89 

Calcutta — A Glance at Its History and 

Its Customs 96 

India — Its Caste Distinctions and Theo- 
logical System 113 

Calcutta and Its Social Life 123 

The Homeward Passage 135 

Ship National Eagle 149 

The Arrival 162 



A SEA TRIP IN CLIPPER SHIP DAYS 



A Sea Trip in 
Clipper Ship Days 

FROM BOSTON TO NEW ORLEANS 

On a chill gray afternoon in December, the good 
Ship, National Eagle, left the wharf in East Bos- 
ton, bound for New Orleans. 

A group of relatives and friends, a few minutes 
before had filed down the gangway, and were 
still standing on the wharf, waving hats and hand- 
kerchiefs, as the ship, her moorings loosened and 
cast off, began to move slowly and majestically 
away from the pier. 

On board of her, as she glided away, in the 
waning light of the short winter afternoon, were 
the Captain; three officers or mates, designated as 
first, second and third ; a carpenter ; a steward ; 
a cook; a crew of twenty or more men, known as 
"sailors before the mast" ; and four younger men, 
called boys to distinguish them from the men of the 
crew. There were also two passengers, my sister 
and myself — daughters of the Captain. 

The Era of the Clipper Ship was the most pic- 
turesque, and perhaps the most profitable period, 
in the maritime life of the United States. It began 
about 1843 because of the growing demand for a 
quicker delivery of tea from China. Other im- 
portant factors, were the discovery of gold in Cali- 
9 



10 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

fornia, and soon after in Australia, and the con- 
sequent rush of men to those localties. 

Perhaps John Masefield the English poet, writ- 
ing about the ships of his own land, voices better 
than any other the feeling that the men of the 
Clipper period had for the ships which they owned 
or commanded or in which they sailed. 

"Those splendid ships each with her grace, her 

glory; 
Her memory of old song or comrade's story; 
Still in my mind the image of life's need, 
Beauty in hardest action — beauty indeed. 
They are grander things than all the art of towns; 
Their tests are tempests, and the sea that drowns, 
They mark our passage as a race of men, 
Earth will not see such ships as those again." 

The Captains of these Clipper Ships, — it may be 
said here, as it has been said many times elsewhere — 
were not in any way like the "Skippers" one find in 
most tales of the sea. They were not bullies on the 
ocean, nor boors on the land. They were men of 
energy, of courage and decision, as must needs be, 
since they had to cope not only with fierce gales and 
storm-tossed waves, but also with the rough, and at 
times riotous, men of whom the crews were usually 
composed. They were also men of poise and polish, 
with a wide knowledge of the world — its many 
countries, its varying codes and customs. 

Thfe period of the Civil War proved a disastrous 
one for American shipping. Even before it began, 
the South and some of the agricultural districts of 



From Boston to "Neuo Orleans 11 

the West, were combining against the North. "No 
more of the Nation's money" they said, "in ship 
subsidies for New England and New York." And 
so, as the War went on, many of those swift and 
stately ships — unprotected by the Government — 
were seized, plundered and destroyed. The in- 
creasing use of steam was also another adverse fac- 
tor. Nevertheless throughout the sixties the con- 
ditions were still fairly favorable. 

Although my personal experience on the Ocean 
had hitherto been confined to an occasional steamer 
passage or a short cruise on a packet, I did not con- 
sider myself in any sense a stranger to it. From 
the windows of my home I could look out upon a 
portion of its broad expanse. I had watched with 
interest all its varying aspects. Under summer 
skies its waves of tender blue, changing with each 
breath of wind that swept over them, with every 
cloud floating above them, thrilled me as all beau- 
tiful things must. On breezy Spring or Autumn 
days, its surface "Deeply, darkly, beautifully blue," 
aroused exhilaration; a desire to dare and do; to 
strive and to accomplish. In Winter, its long roll- 
ing surges, breaking upon the shore, sullen and gray 
as the sky above, were like a heavy weight upon 
mind and heart. 

The Ocean was also familiar to me in another 
way. I came of a sea-faring race. Trade winds 
and currents, monsoons and typhoons were fam- 
iliar words to me. I knew more about foreign 
posts than I did of the cities in my own land. The 
china, the pottery, the beautiful fabrics brought 
from abroad, were all familiar. Strange images of 



12 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

Pagan Gods peered at me from many a shelf and 
table. 

I knew also something of Ocean lore. There 
was no Alfred Noyes at that time. His wonderful 
epic of "Drake" and his lilting lyrics like "Forty 
Singing Seamen" verse — where were they? Un- 
voiced, at least for us. There was no Masefield, 
either, with his heart hunger for the Ocean — "Sea 
Fever," as he calls it, and his practical knowledge 
of life upon it. 

"I must go down to the seas again, 

To the lonely sea and sky. 
And all I ask, is a tall ship. 

And a star to steer her by; 
And the wheel's kick, and the Wind's Song, 

And the white sails shaking. 
And a grey mist on the sea's face 

And a grey dawn breaking." 

But old Ocean has never in any age lacked for 
lovers, nor for poets to sing its praises. Homer's 
"Sounding Sea" and "Wine-dark Waves," have fil- 
tered down through the years. Byron had written 
grand and thrilling tributes, in the Corsairs, and in 
various cantas of Childe Harold. Mrs. Heman's 
"Treasures of the Deep," and "Where is my own 
blue Sea?" were familiar to all, and the spirited 
lines of Epes Sargent, 

"A Life on the Ocean Wave, 
A Home on the rolling deep." 

had become a favorite song. 



From Boston to New Orleans 13 

In prose, there was Dana's "Two Years Before 
the Mast" — that "Classic of the Sea," as it has been 
called; and Fenimore Cooper, out of his experi- 
ences in the Stirling, and later in the Navy, had 
gathered material for tales and sketches, and for his 
widely read novel — "The Pilot." 

All that I knew of it, therefore, had made me 
more desirous to come into closer touch with it. 
When I first began to ply my father with questions, 
as to the possibility of this, he had replied — "The 
Sea is no place for girls." Later however, wearied 
perhaps by importunity, or influenced, it may be, 
by my enthusiasm, he would say "It will be time 
enough to think about that, when your school days 
are over." 

"Not by appointment, do we meet Delight 
And Joy: they heed not our expectancy; 
But round some corner in the streets of life. 
They on a sudden clasp us with a smile." 

So it was with me ! The long desired opportun- 
ity came unexpectedly, without initiative or effort 
on my part. Preparations were hastily made, and 
now, here I was, fairly embarked. 

That first night at sea! Shall I ever forget it! 
I lay quietly in my berth, watching the dim swaying 
light of the after cabins, into which our state rooms 
opened, and listening to the measured tread of the 
mates, as they paced back and forth on the upper 
deck. Sleep, beloved of humanity "from pole to 
pole" was a belated visitor that night. Instead I 
filled the hours with memories of the past; with 
hopes and plans for the future. 



14 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

Dawn came at last ! The wind was light, the sea 
comparatively smooth. M — . and I remained in 
our berths, as a precautionary measure. Many table 
delicacies had been put on board for us. We had 
examined them the day before with much inter- 
est. That interest had suddenly waned. We did 
not care for any of them. Instead we breakfasted, 
dined and supped on gruel, and the "hard-tack" of 
the sailors — a species of cracker very brown and 
crisp with little flavor. Perhaps that is why it 
appeals to uncertain appetites. 

About noon, the wind began to blow with vigor 
— "just a stiff breeze," the Captain called it. The 
"stiff breeze" soon developed into a gale with heavy 
rain showers. We tossed about in our berths, sleep- 
ing little and the night hours seemed very long. 

The next day was fair, but the sea was still 
roughened by the storm. M — . and I remained in 
our berths, reading most of the time. That night 
we slept well. When I looked out of my stateroom 
window in the morning, the clouds wore that 
roseate hue, which is the herald of the sun's ap- 
proach in summer. I heard the Captain saying, 

"We are now in the Gulf Stream." 

I remembered that I had read somewhere, of 
strange woods and fruits that were found on the 
shores of Europe, before the discovery of America. 
They were supposed to be brought by the Gulf 
Stream, and these, being seen by Columbus, were 
to him convincing evidence, that unknown lands 
were to the westward. M — . and I rose, dressed 
hastily and went on deck. To novices like our- 
selves, this immense ocean current, mingling as it 



From Boston to New Orleans 15 

must with the water about it, was scarcely notice- 
able; but to the trained eye and practical knowl- 
edge of a seaman its presence was evident. The 
warmer temperature of the water is one indication. 

We went down to breakfast which was served 
in the forward cabin. The Captain and the first 
mate, Mr. B — . were at the table with us. We 
were waited upon by the steward. A strict code 
of etiquette is maintained on board these ships. The 
second and third mates and the carpenter are serv- 
ed at our table after we are through. The steward 
eats in his pantry; the cook in his galley. The 
men of the crew, and the boys, have their meals, 
in fine weather, on the forward part of the deck. 
When there is a storm, they are served in their own 
quarters. No one ever enters the after cabin, and 
the state rooms which open into it, except the Cap- 
tain; any passengers who may be on board; the 
first mate; and the steward — the latter only in 
pursuance of his work — his sweeping, dusting and 
bed-making. No member of the crew is supposed 
to come aft of the main mast, except when on duty 
there. Byron's description in "Childe Harold" — 
Canto II — of the discipline maintained on an Eng- 
lish Frigate, is, with the change of a few terms, 
entirely applicable to that on these merchant ships. 

After breakfast I examined the small library in 
the Captain's room, with the purpose of learning 
something about the Gulf stream. I found a book 
in which the matter seemed to be partially explained 
in this way. 

"In tropical regions, there is a steady movement 
of the air from east to west, known as trade winds. 



1 6 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

Any wind blowing over the surface of the water 
induces a current in the latter, due to friction. At 
first it is only the surface water that moves, but 
gradually the motion is communicated from layer 
to layer, until, if the wind is long continued, as in 
the Trade-wind region, the movement extends to 
lower depths — three or four hundred feet or more. 
There is evidence that the Gulf Stream is gov- 
erned by law. Its course through the Ocean seems 
to be fixed. Its fluctations are by days, months, 
seasons, or years, but they do not vary materially 
from one year to another." 

After the Captain had taken his morning sights 
and written up his "log," he brought me a more 
recent work — "The Physical Geography of the 
Sea," by Lieutenant Maury of the United States 
Navy. The first and second chapters, of twenty 
pages, each, are about the Gluf Stream, and its 
effect upon climate and commerce. It begins in 
this way. 

"There is a river in the ocean. In the severest 
droughts it never fails, and in the mightiest floods 
it never overflows. It banks and its bottoms are 
of cold water, while its current is of warm. The 
Gulf of Mexico is its fountain and its mouth is in 
the Artie Seas. It is the Gulf Stream. There is in 
the world no other such majestic flow of water. 
Its current is more rapid than the Mississippi or the 
Amazon, and its volume a thousand times greater. 
'What is the cause of the Gulf Stream,' has always 
puzzled philosophers? Many are the theories, and 
numerous the speculations that have been advanced 
with regard to it. Modern investigations and ex- 



From Boston to New Orleans 17 

aminations are beginning to throw some light upon 
the subject, though all is not yet clear." 

Such being the case, it will take me a long 
time doubtless, to understand the problem, if, in- 
deed, I am ever able to do so. I can at least enjoy 
the warmth which it brings, for the article goes 
on to say, "The Gulf Stream carries the tempera- 
ture of summer, even in the dead of winter, as 
far north as the Grand Banks of Newfoundland." 

After dinner M — . and I sat for a long time 
on the upper deck. The Captain sent up two com- 
fortable chairs for us. We did a little walking also, 
but we are not quite sure of maintaining our equilib- 
rium as yet. 

December 24. One of our boy sailors has been 
ill for three or four days. The Captain, who in 
addition to his other responsibilities has to assume 
the role of physician when one is needed, has been 
going in to see him each day. He has also been 
reading with unusual attention the "Medical 
Treatise" which every ship is supposed to carry. 
Today he has diagnosed the disease as "small pox." 
The patient has been removed from his former 
quarters to a secluded yet well ventilated place be- 
tween decks. His bunk and all those near it, have 
been cleaned and fumigated, but if the men who 
have been in his immediate vicinity are at all sus- 
ceptible, I should think they might be already inocu- 
lated. 

Dec. 25th. Charming weather. A fresh breeze 
has carried us swiftly and easily over the water. 
M — . and I have spent most of the day on deck. 
I recall how often in just such weather, though 



1 8 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

seldom in December, I have looked out on the rest- 
less blue waves of the bay and longed to be gliding 
over them. I have been reading some of Byron's 
poems, especially those relating to the sea. 

Dec. 26. Very warm and calm. The ship seems 
scarcely to move. It is like May at home, when 
May is in its most agreeable mood. Gulf-weed has 
been floating about the ship now for several days. 
The sea at times, appears to be strewn with it. 
Mr. B — . drew up some for us to examine. We 
have tried to press it for keeping, but it soon be- 
comes brittle and fragmentary. Not many poets, 
I am sure, have selected gulf-weed as a subject, but 
one at least, has done so. I recall a few lines. 

"A weary weed, tossed to and fro. 
Dreamily drenched in the ocean brine, 
Tossing high and sinking low, 
Lashed along without will of mine. 
Sport of the spume of the surging sea, 
Flung on the foam, afar and near, 
Mark my manifold destiny — 
Growth and grace in this place appears." 

December 29th. Saw land today for the first 
time, since the islands of Boston Harbor disap- 
peared from view. It was the island of Abaco — one 
of the Bahamas. Near its southern extremity is 
the "Hole in the Wall," of which I have heard so 
much on this trip. A cavity has been worn in the 
solid rock by the action of the waves. We could see 
them breaking through. I recalled some lines of 
Emerson. 



From Boston to New Orleans 19 

"I, with my hammer pounding evermore 
The rocky coast, smite Andes into dust ; 
I make man's sculptured architecture vain, 
Vain beside mine. I drive my Wedges home. 
And carve the coastwise mountains into caves." 

In this vicinity is a ledge of rocks known as the 
"Great Isaac." Near by are two smaller ones, call- 
ed the "Middle and Little Isaac." I asked about 
the origin of the name, but could get no informa- 
tion. 

"That is not our affair," said the Captain. "Our 
business is to know where they are, and to avoid 
them." 

Some of the principal islands in this vicinity are 
Abaco, Andros, Eleuthera, Watlin and Cat Is- 
land. These with many rocky ledges and barren 
sand-banks, stretching some five or six hundred 
miles, from Southern Florida to the coast of Cuba, 
form what is termed the Bahaman Archipelago. 
Navigation in this vicinity has been made difficult 
and dangerous, by the many reefs and shoals, and 
also by the pirates who have infested the region, and 
who have loomed large in "Tales of the Sea." Nas- 
sau seems to be the only town of any size or impor- 
tance, in the whole group. It is situated on one of 
the smaller islands; but, because of its good harbor, 
direct communication with the mainland is made 
easy. With such a balmy climate, it would seem 
that these islands might be utilized for winter re- 
sorts. 

December 31st. The thermometer stands at 84 
degrees in the shade. I sat on deck and read Vil- 



20 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

lette, saw a "peak-nosed-grampus" quietly pursu- 
ing his way through the water. I also caught a 
glimpse of a flying fish. 

"A joyous creature vaulted through the air, 
The aspiring fish that fain would be a bird." 

One might suppose that the days would seem 
long and monotonous, but I do not find them so. 
There is always something new, a bird, a fish, a 
distant sail, a shade of the water not before noticed. 
The ship rocks gently back and forth, while the 
minutes glide almost unnoticed into hours. It is all 
strangely fascinating. 

"Illusion dwells forever with the wave" 

A small schooner came out towards us this morn- 
ing from one of the islands. The Captain called 
it a "Wrecker." Its alleged purpose was, he said, 
to offer assistance, in case the ship should touch 
on any of the rocks or shoals in the vicinity. Fail- 
ing in that, however, they sent out a boat, manned 
by "darkies," which came alongside. As no one 
threw them a rope, they could not get on board, 
but their object was, — the Captain said — "to bor- 
row," — which means to beg — some beef, pork and 
flour. 

The Captain continues to visit his patient be- 
tween decks, three times a day. The other boy 
sailors are detailed to carry his food, and to wait 
upon him. They obey without complaint. It is an 
instance of the unexpected emergencies and dis- 
agreeable duties that may arise in a seafaring life. 



From Boston to "New Orleans 21 

Three of the crew have reported themselves as ill, 
and have asked for medicine. The Captain has 
supplied them liberally w^ith simple remedies, 
though, evidently, he does not think there is 
much the matter with them except fear. That, 
under the circumstances is not to be wondered at. 

January ist. Another year numbered with the 
past. I walked on deck a long time last evening. 
A fair young moon and brilliant twinkling stars 
appeared to be looking kindly down upon us. Some- 
how they seem more friendly and familiar here on 
these wide ocean spaces, than they do amid the 
bustle and clangor of towns and cities. 

January 2nd. During a sudden "squall" last 
night, the ship's foremast was found to be injured, — 
"sprung," is I think, the nautical term. When the 
first fury of the wind had abated, the officer, who 
was on deck, ordered the crew to go aloft and furl 
some of the sails. They refused, saying "that it was 
not safe." The officer reported to the Captain, who 
assured them that there was no danger. They per- 
sisted in their refusal, whereupon the Captain order- 
ed all the ship's stores to be locked up, telling them, 
that — "if they would not work, they should not 
eat." An hour or two later, becoming hungry I 
suppose, they decided to obey orders, going aloft, 
furling the sails, and returning without accident 
or injury to any one, thereby verifying the state- 
ment of those in authority. 

January 3rd. Writing is difficult today. I have 
to grasp my paper with one hand, my pen with the 
other, and brace my knees against the table, lest 
we all part company. There is a ship just behind 



22 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

us, on our track. She seems to fly over the waves. 
Some one has said that — "of all inanimate objects, 
a sailing ship, in her vivid movement, most nearly 
simulates life." We are going ten knots an hour. 
She is going tvi^elve or more, according to the Cap- 
tain. 

To say that a vessel is making ten knots an hour, 
means that she is going through the water at the 
rate of ten knots, or ten sea miles. The term knot 
is simply a unit of speed, and is said to be derived 
from the knots marked on the old-fashioned log- 
line. "A knot or nautical mile is one sixtieth of a 
degree of latitude. For practical purposes, it may 
be taken as 6,080 feet. This differs slightly from 
the statute mile, instituted by the Romans." 

January 4th. Mr. W — , the second mate, re- 
ported to the Captain this morning that the men 
of the crew were aft, "en masse" complaining of 
their bread — the "hard-tack" — of which large quan- 
tities are alwa3'^s included in a ship's stores. The 
Captain went forward on the upper deck, and stood 
facing them, some twenty or more men. 

"Of what do you complain?" he asked. "The 
bread is not fit to eat," they replied. The Cap- 
tain sent for a sample, examined it, tasted it, and 
then told them that it was "all right." "It is much 
better than you will be likely to get on the next 
ship in which you may go," he added. 

But they still insisted that it was bad. "If we 
can't have decent food, we won't work," they said, 
"and you may get your ship to New Orleans, the 
best way you can." 

"I intend to get her into New Orleans," he re- 



From Boston to New Orleans 23 

plied, "and moreover you will do the work. I shall 
not pull a rope nor furl a sail, and I shall give you 
no other bread." 

Thereupon he left them, and came back to the 
cabin. Soon after, there was need of taking in 
sail. When the order was given, I wondered if the 
men would obey. They did very readily however. 
The Captains of these Merchant Ships have the 
reputation of being severe with their crews. It 
does at times appear so. But the more one knows 
of the prevailing conditions, the more difficult it 
becomes, to see how they can be any less so, and yet 
retain cominand of the ship and control of the men. 

The New Year does not seem to have come in 
very auspiciously, but I bethink me of the proverb 
— "A bad beginning makes a good ending." 

January 5th. Before I left my stateroom this 
morning I heard the Captain say, "I see a steam- 
boat's smoke ahead." After breakfast I went on 
deck, and there indeed, was one coming toward us. 
Very soon it was "alongside." The mate threw a 
rope on board, and we were taken in tow. Later 
we saw two boats with a large ship between them. 
One of the boats was the Mary Kingsley com- 
manded by Captain C — . whom we knew. Soon 
after a New York steamer passed us on her way 
down the river. About noon a pilot came on board 
bringing New Orleans papers. One boat, the J. P. 
Whitney of the "Good Intent" line, is now puffing 
and bustling along, as though conscious of her 
responsibility. Stretches of low marshy land are 
visible on both sides of the river, which is as turbid 
as a mud puddle. 



24 -^ Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

It seems strange yet most fascinating to be really 
gliding over the mighty Mississippi — the "Father 
of Waters" — the river, in the vicinity of which, the 
indefatigable explorer, De Soto, spent years, hop- 
ing to find some waterway connecting the Atlantic 
and Pacific Oceans, the river which later — it is said 
— became his grave. He had been in almost con- 
stant warfare with the native Indians; and after 
his death, from an attack of fever, his followers 
were supposed to have lowered his body secretly in 
the river — lest the Indians should seize upon and 
mutilate it. 

De Soto's dream remained but a dream to him, 
and to the hundreds of others, who traversed this 
region after him. But men have slowly acquired, 
and are still acquiring supremacy over Nature. The 
earnest quest to find culminates often times in the 
ability to invent or create. Something like this is 
now taking place on the Isthmus of Suez. An at- 
tempt is being made to cut a channel across it, thus 
connecting the water of the Mediterranean with 
that of the Red Sea, and thereby reducing the length 
of passages to the Orient, 

If it is proved that this can be accomplished, why 
may not DeSoto's dream become a reality in the far 
future? Not indeed by means of the Mississippi 
river, as he thought, but by a strait or channel across 
another isthmus — that of Darien. Perhaps Balboa, 
who is said to be the first European to see the 
Pacific Ocean from American shores, may have had 
some such vision ; or even 

"Stout Cortez, when with eagle eyes he stared 
at the Pacific — and all his men looked at each 



From Boston to New Orleans 25 

other with a wild surmise — silent upon a peak in 
Darien." 

January 6th. Anchored at the Quarantine 
Ground. We arrived here about three o'clock this 
morning. The doctor in charge came on board to 
ask if there were any cases of disease to report. I 
could hear him discussing the matter with the Cap- 
tain in the cabin. About nine o'clock a boat came 
o£E from the hospital and took our sick man away. 
The other two, who feared that they were coming 
down with the same disease, were examined and 
given a "clean bill of health." In the afternoon 
the doctor came again, and the ship, between decks, 
and above, has been thoroughly fumigated under his 
direction. We shall be detained here a few days. 

January 8th. Here we are at anchor, with ships 
and steam tugs all about us, some going up the 
river, others coming down. The weather is fav- 
orable for sitting and walking on deck. I have also 
wiled away some hours, reading the Captain's Log 
Book, and have copied a few of the entries. A nau- 
tical day is supposed to begin at noon, and to end 
the next noon. For convenience, the twenty-four 
hours are divided into three periods of eight hours 
each — designated as first, middle, and latter part. 
The latitude, longitude and barometer account are 
appended to each day's report, but I have not al- 
ways added the latter items — as no practical use is 
to be made of them here. 

January nth. Again steaming up the Missis- 
sippi. Nearly five days have we spent at the Quar- 
antine Station. The time has passed quickly never- 
theless. There has been much to see on the river. 



26 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

The doctoi made us several calls. He told us that 
thirty-seven vessels went up to New Orleans while 
we were at the station. He reported our sick man 
as "being on the road to recovery." But he added, 
with a somewhat ambiguous smile, "his beauty has 
gone." As he left, he gave us "Pratique" and 
wished us better luck, the next time we came this 
way. 

Along the banks of the river, are many live oak 
trees, their branches heavily draped with moss. 
There are also orange trees, with a few oranges still 
hanging upon them. We have passed several large 
sugar plantations. Near them are small huts — 
negro cabins, I suppose. Colored men, women, and 
children are walking about. Most of the women 
wear turbans. We saw a colored dandy with a 
cigar in his mouth, riding a smart horse. 

We have passed the site of the Battleground, 
where General Andrew Jackson met the British, in 
the last battle of what is known as the War of 1812. 

January 12th. Up to the city at last. Mr. 
Blake, the colored stevedore, was on the levee, 
awaiting the arrival of the ship. He looks and 
seems intelligent, and in his manner, there is a fine 
blending of deference and self-respect. On the 
whole, a noticeable man. "Uncle Tom," may per- 
haps have been drawn from one like him. 

The mail awaiting us in New Orleans was sent 
down, just as the steward announced supper. Until 
that function was over, we had to content ourselves, 
like "Lucy Snowe in Villette," with looking at the 
outside of our letters. I had seven, M — . as many 
more, and we had several newspapers. Over this 



From Boston to New Orleans 27 

"feast of reason and flow of soul," we spent the 
entire evening, for there were no neglected lessons 
haunting us, as had sometimes been the case on sim- 
ilar occasions, in school days. 

Ship National Eagle 

From Boston towards New Orleans. George 
Matthews, Master. Ship drawing i6]/2 feet aft, 
16 feet, 3 inches forward. Cargo — Ballast and 
Gunny Cloth. 

Sea Account 

Friday, December i6th. Yesterday at 2 P. M. 
cast off from wharf at East Boston, and proceeded 
down the harbor in tow of the steam-tug Huron. 
At 3.30 P. M. the pilot and tug left the ship, mid- 
way between the Spit Light House and the Cen- 
turion. At 3.37 P. M. passed Boston Light House. 
At 6.40, made Cape Cod light, and at 8.30 P. M. it 
bore, by compass, S. W. about three leagues distant 
by calculation. Middle and latter part of night 
moderate and cloudy. Several sail in sight bound 
in and out of the Channel. Ends overcast and 
cloudy. Bent the royals and set them. My daugh- 
ters somewhat sea-sick, also the new boys. 

Latitude — Observation at noon, 41° 12' North. 
Longitude by Chronometer, 6° 90' West. 
Aneroid Barometers, 30, 35 at noon. 

Saturday, December 17. Commenced moderate 
and cloudy from north. Set studding-sails. Mid- 
dle part, moderate. Latter part a strong breeze 



28 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

from the east, with cloudy weather. Took in the 
studding-sails; rigged in the booms. Day ends 
cloudy. No observation for latitude. 

Latitude by Dead Reckoning, 29° 16' north. 
Longitude by Dead Reckoning, 69° 00' west. 
Aneroid Barometer, 25" 95, and falling at noon. 

A stowaway boy made his appearance on deck 
today. 

Sunday, Dec. 18. Commences with strong gales 
from east to E. S. E. and cloudy weather. At four 
P. M. shortened sail to close reefs. At 8.30 P. M. 
furled jib, main sail, cross jack and spanker. The 
gale increasing, took in and furled the upper top- 
sails. Middle part, heavy gales, attended with 
squalls of wind and rain. At i A. M., carried 
away the main topmast stay-sail-stay. Had to run 
the ship before the wind, about an hour, to save 
the sail. At 3 A. M. Took in the fore-sail, and 
bore ship. At 4 A. M. the wind, shifted to the 
westward, and soon after fell calm. At 10 A. M. 
took a breeze again from about W. by S. Made all 
prudent sail. Ends brisk and clear from about 
West. 

Latitude observation, at noon, 37° 51' North. 
Longitude by Chronometer, 70° 05' West. 

Monday, Dec. 19. First part brisk and clear 
from the westward. Middle and latter part, gentle 
breeze from West to W. S. W. Clear weather. 
Ends the same. 



From Boston to New Orleans 29 

Latitude observation at noon, 35° 23' North. 
Longitude by Chronometer, 68° 52' West. 
Aneroid Barometers, 30, 12 at noon. 

Dec. 2 1 St. Commences with strong southerly 
gales and cloudy weather. Close-reefed the main- 
sail; double-reefed the mizzen-top sail; reefed the 
main-top mast stay sail. At 3 P. M. the wind 
freshening, took in the upper top-sail courses, jib 
and spanker. Middle part, strong south westerly 
gales with hazy weather. At 6 A. M. bore ship 
to the south and eastward. Ends overcast; clouds 
from south and westward. All sail set again with 
topmast and lower studding sails. 

Latitude by Dead Reckoning, 34° 10' North. 
Longitude by Chronometer, 69° 36' West. 
Aneroid Barometer, 30, 02 at noon. 

Dec. 26. Through this 24 hours, very light airs 
from N. E. to E. N. E. with fine pleasant weather. 
Two ships in company, running for the "Hole in 
the Wall." This morning discovered the head of 
the Foremast to be sprung, just above the truss- 
band. 

Latitude, observation at noon, 26° 57' North. 
Longitude by Chronometer, 74° 53' West. 
Aneroid Barometer, 30, 30 at noon. 

Dec. 28th. Throughout this 24 hours, light airs, 
and calms from N. E. to S. E. with fine clear 
weather. At i A. M. made Abaco Light, bearing 



30 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

S. W. by W. S. W. — by compass. Ends with light 
airs from the eastward. Fine "sail" in sight, be- 
side four or five small craft. At noon Abaco Light 
House bore W. N. W. by compass, about two 
leagues distant. 

Dec. 29. Commences with a light breeze, from 
the N. E. Eastward. Employed in setting up the 
main rigging. At 1.45 P. M. Abaco Light House, 
bore N. by E. about two leagues distant. Our 
company keepers all astern of us. At noon, the 
Great Isaac Light House, bore W. by S. — by com- 
pass, about two leagues distant. Ends fine. A ship 
in sight off our starboard quarter, bound round the 
Isaacs apparently. 

Jan. 2nd. Commences moderate from the east- 
ward, and pleasant. At 3.30 P. M. m.ade the Sand 
of Cuba. At 1.30 A. M. the wind shifted in a 
squall to N. Westward. Took in studding-sails. 
Royals, Top-gallant sails, etc. At 2.30 A. M. 
bore ship to the westward. The head of our fore- 
mast, becoming much weaker, thought it best to 
send down the fore Royal, and top-gallant yards 
and mast, and also top-gallant studding sails, and 
all the standing and running rigging attached to the 
mast. The crew at first refused to go up. but cer- 
tain measures that were adopted, brought them to 
it at last. Land of Cuba in sight to leeward. 

New Orleans 

M — . and I have been spending several days 
with friends. Their home seems more like a coun- 
try than a city house. It is white in color, and 



From Boston to New Orleans 31 

surrounded by shrubbery. From them, we have 
learned something of the early history of New Or- 
leans, and under their guidance, have seen many 
aspects of this beautiful Southern City. It was 
founded in 171 8, by Jean Baptiste Le Moyne, Gov- 
ernor of the territory, and was named in honor of 
the Duke of Orleans, the Regent of France. The 
centre of the new settlement was the Place d' 
Armes, now Jackson Square. In 1762 France ceded 
the whole of Louisiana to Spain. The people of 
New Orleans objected to the change, and expelled 
the first Spanish Governor. In 1803, the United 
States obtained possession of it. 

New Orleans is situated on both banks of the 
Mississippi, about one hundred and seven miles 
from its mouth. Its appellation of the Crescent 
City was doubtless given it, because in its early days, 
it followed the bend of the river. It is so far below 
the level of high water, that it has to be pro- 
tected from overflow by high levees, and the prob- 
lem of drainage and sewerage has been a perplexing 
one. The levees are busy places, lined with ves- 
sels lying along side, and covered with cotton bales, 
and other merchandise, to be put on board of them. 
Crowds of colored men, in all sorts of costumes, are 
always working or lounging there. 

Canal Street, the chief business thoroughfare, is 
very wide. It divides the city into two parts. The 
portion above is the American quarters, in which 
are most of the large business houses, the banks, and 
other public buildings. Below Canal St. is the part 
known as the French quarter or V'leux Carre. 

On the first day of our visit we went with our 



32 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

friends for a drive about the American quarter. 
Above Canal Street is St. Charles Avenue, Wash- 
ington Avenue, and Prytania Street. On these 
streets are some of the finest residences. We saw 
the St. Charles, the fashionable Hotel. This seems 
to have been as much a feature of the political and 
social life of New Orleans, as the Revere House, 
formerly of Boston. The first St. Charles was de- 
stroyed by fire in 1851. Another of the same gen- 
eral style, was built on the same site in 1852. 

We went to the New Custom House, which has 
already been a dozen years in building, and will 
probably not be completed for several years. Some 
of the lower rooms were already in use. From the 
top — the top that now is — a fine view of the city 
may be obtained. 

From there, we went to the mint, and watched 
the various processes, through which the silver must 
pass before it becomes current coin. There was 
nothing being done with gold that day. 

The next day, we went with Mrs. F — . to see 
"the fashions." Many richly dressed women were 
on the streets and in the stores. Their costumes 
were much lighter and ga}^er than those of North- 
ern cities, adapted of course to the needs of a warm- 
er climate. We returned in the street cars, which 
are quite unlike those at the North. They have 
three compartments; the front one for men, the 
middle one for women, and the back one for colored 
people. Entrance to all of them is on the side. In 
the evening we went to a ball for children. A little 
fellow who could not have been more than four 
years old, was dressed in costume — Napoleon Bon- 



From Boston to New Orleans 33 

aparte in miniature. A little girl, a fairy like crea- 
ture, in a costume of white silk, spangled with sil- 
ver stars, danced alone. The shawl dance was 
given with fine effect. 

Another day we drove through the French quar- 
ter, which we found most interesting. There live 
the old Creole families, descendants of the early 
French and Spanish settlers. French is still spoken 
almost exclusively, and as some one has said, "visi- 
tors feel as though they were in a faubourg of Par- 
is." Many residences are of Spanish or Moorish 
architecture, with finely wrought iron balconies. 
Some are surrounded by beautiful gardens with 
palms and palmettos, orange and fig trees. The 
streets as a rule do not run at right angles, but fol- 
low the course of the river. 

Within this quarter are French shops and res- 
taurants, schools and churches. We visited one 
of the French cemeteries. As it is not possible in 
New Orleans to dig much below the surface with- 
out coming upon water, the somewhat novel custom 
prevails, of burying the dead in vaults or ovens. 
These are placed one above another, rising in tiers 
as high as seven or eight feet. Vases were placed 
on shelves in front of these vaults. A few were 
filled with fresh flowers; more with artificial ones. 
Beads were wrought into every conceivable shape, 
into flowers, crosses, mottos such as "In Memor- 
ium," "Regrets," "Souvenirs." 

We drove around the New Marine Hospital, 
which is not yet finished, and by the canal. The 
streets in this vicinity have somewhat unusual 
names. The Muses are kept in remembrance by 



34 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

Melpomene, Euterpe, Clio. There is also, Felicity 
street and Harmony street. 

That evening we went to a concert given by 
various singers with most unpronouncable and un- 
spellable names, assisted by the orchestra of the 
Opera. During many years troupes have been 
brought over from France to furnish this enter- 
tainment. The Creoles are so extremely fond of 
music, that the city, with the aid of private sub- 
scription, has been able to support these foreign 
companies. 

To the French market, in the older part of the 
city, every visitor goes, not because of its beauty nor 
its architecture, but for its quaintness and historic 
charm. Some one has called it the "Cradle of New 
Orleans." It has also been likened to Old Temple 
Bar in London, since each marked the limits of an 
ancient city. The best time to see it, our friends 
said, was early on Sunday morning. Upon arri- 
val there, we found a long low shed, or perhaps a 
succession of sheds, with roofs supported by iron 
shafts, and beneath a pavement of flagstones. In 
the immediate vicinity are shops, cafes, sailor board- 
ing houses, and in the rear, the levee and the Mis- 
sissippi. Through it wanders a cosmopolitan 
crowd, made up of all races. Many speak with a 
foreign accent. Others chatter in unfamiliar 
tongues. All sorts of things are for sale, vegetables, 
fruit, confectionery, clothing, jewelry. Colored 
women, with laden baskets, were trying to sell the 
varied contents. Several Indians were much in evi- 
dence. One of them bought a bottle of essence of 
mace, and proceeded to put it on his hair. 



From Boston to New Orleans 35 

\ 

January 26th. We have been with the Cap- 
tain to Lake Pontchartrain, over a raised shell road, 
and by way of Carrolton. There is much swampy 
land in the region, green with rushes and palmettos, 
similar to those we saw at the Quarantine Station. 
Near the lake is a large hotel with veranda, gardens, 
and summer houses. It was closed, and had conse- 
quently a forlorn appearance. It is doubtless a 
pleasant retreat during the warmer months. 

To us, it seems like summer now. Flowers are 
blooming in the gardens, and the weather is delight- 
ful. We are feeling very much at home in New 
Orleans. Mr. B — . who is in business here, but 
who comes from Boston, calls frequently. Cap- 
tain and Mrs. Lathrop of the ship "South Shore," 
and Captain Lincoln of the "T. B. Wales" are 
very neighborly. They also live near Boston. Cap- 
tain and Mrs. Curtis of the ship "Villa Franca," 
call often. Their home is in Maine. 

Jan. 31st. An alarm of fire caused quite an 
excitement today. It was on the levee, which is 
covered with bales of cotton, for the ships now in 
port. The Captain went down at once, for some 
of it belongs to the cargo, now being put into the 
"National Eagle." The fire was extinguished, how- 
ever, before it reached that point. Since I wrote 
last we have made an interesting visit to what is 
known as the "Haunted House." It stands on 
Royal street. The grounds about it once formed 
part of a large French plantation, rich in orange 
groves and waving cane. As years rolled on, acre 
after acre were sold to accommodate the demands 
of an increasing population. Only a comparatively 



36 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

small tract is now left. It is said to belong to 1 
lady who lives in France. She is unwilling to dis- 
pose of it, until she can sell the house and all the 
remaining land together. In the meantime, the 
house has become almost a ruin. Nearly all the 
window panes are shattered, and doors have fallen 
from their hinges. Enough of its original appear- 
ance still remains, however, to show what it must 
have been in the days of its prime. 

It is a square building and was formerly sur- 
rounded on all sides by broad verandas, supported 
by heavy pillars. A wide hall runs through the 
house, from front to back. In the centre, a circular 
stairway leads up through all the stories to the roof, 
which is nearly flat and nicely paved. From this, a 
fine view of the city and the river, with its forests 
of masts, may be obtained. Near the stairway and ac- 
cessible from it, is a narrow triangular passage- 
way, extending from the ground to the roof. There 
are various traditions connected with this old house, 
one of which is that Lafilte, the robber, once made 
it a rendezvous, and that this passageway was made 
the secret receptacle of his ill-gotten booty. His 
spirit and the spirits of his chosen comrades are 
still said to haunt the place and to hold midnight 
revels there. The more generally accepted tradi- 
tion is, that it is haunted by the "ghosts of mal- 
treated negroes." The colored people, who are very 
superstitious, claim that they have seen "skeleton 
hands clutching the doors, and wild eyes looking 
out of the windows." They will often go quite 
out of their way to avoid passing it, especially after 
dark. So far as my own experience goes, though 



From Boston to New Orleans 37 

I peeped into every nook and corner, I saw nothing 
more spectre-like, than a mule and two pigs wander- 
ing from room to room. It was broad day light 
however, and ghosts are not supposed to walk ex- 
cept in darkness. 

February 2nd. A new foremast, to replace the 
one injured on the passage out, is being put in the 
ship today. Loading with cotton for the Liverpool 
market is going on rapidly, so it begins to look like 
getting away. To leave this pleasant city with its 
summer climate and its delightful social life, for a 
winter passage across the Atlantic, is a change not to 
be contemplated with pleasure. Both, nevertheless, 
are phases of this seafaring life, which I have long 
desired to know by personal experience. 

February 9th. Today we have had some of our 
friends and acquaintances in New Orleans to lun- 
cheon on board the ship. It was something of a 
novelty, and all seemed to enjoy it. M — . and I 
adorned the table with roses and honeysuckle. The 
steward prepared a fine meal and served it daintily. 
If he could restrain his appetite for intoxicants, he 
might obtain lucrative positions on shore. He is 
really a first class chef. 

February 12th. We have had some interesting 
Sundays during our stay here. We have heard Dr. 
Palmer, who is called the "Star preacher of the 
South Presbyterian Church." We have also heard 
Mr, Thomas of the Unitarian Church. We found 
large congregations at both, although New Orleans 
is considered a difficult field for Protestant ministers. 
We have also been to one of the churches for col- 
ored people. We had hoped to hear a negro preach- 



38 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

er, but a white man was in the pulpit. A gray-haired 
negro, however, made a long and ejaculatory prayer, 
which elicited various manifestations of the spirit, 
more or less vigorous, from members of the congre- 
gation. 

We went one morning to the old French Cathe- 
dral. Its cross-crowned spire bids the travellers wel- 
come, long before the city bursts upon his view. The 
Cathedral stands in what is now Jackson Square, 
but was, in the early years of New Orleans, the 
Place d'Armes. It was the scene of General Jack- 
son's triumphal entry into the city, after his victory 
over the British in 1815. An equestrian statue of 
him has since been placed there. 

Many persons were in the Cathedral, when we 
entered, but no service was going on just then. Some 
were reading their prayer books; others were kneel- 
ing in the aisles. It was perfectly quiet, except for 
the low strains of the organ. The sunshine falling 
through stained glass windows filled it with dim 
dreamy light. In the vestibule, as we went in, stood 
a small gray-haired old man, whom we did not es- 
pecially notice until our attention was directed to 
him. For fifteen years, it is said, through the heat 
of summer and the cold of winter, he has wandered 
about the Cathedral, seldom leaving it, except to pro- 
cure food, and now and then to beg for an old gar- 
ment. He is always quiet and reverent. From 
whence he came no one knows, and the link which 
binds him to the Cathedral remains a mystery. He 
seems to have neither relatives nor friends, save, that 
in some degree, all are friendly to one so harmless 
and so destitute. 



From Boston to 'New Orleans 39 

February 17th. The Captains now in port are 
very sociable. It is seldom that an evening passes 
without a call from one or more ; often two or three 
are here at a time. Captain Kelly of the ship "Os- 
borne Howes," Captain Eldridge of the "Lizzie 
Oakford," Captain Ryder of the "John and Albert," 
Captain Hill of the "Patterson" are among those 
who come most frequently. 

Since I last wrote, we have spent a few days with 
our friends, Mr. and Mrs. F — . We have done a 
little shopping and made a few calls. But the days 
are speeding on, and we must now make preparations 
for leaving. Captain Lincoln has already sent sev- 
eral volumes of Dickens down to the ship for us to 
read on the passage to Liverpool. Shall we ever 
come this way again, I wonder, and if so, when and 
how? 



FROM NEW ORLEANS TO LIVERPOOL 

February 2ist. This is Mardi-Gras and all sorts 
of festivities are going on in New Orleans, while 
we are steaming down the Mississippi. M — . and 
I are so disappointed that we could not remain a day 
or two longer. To be "so near and yet so far" is 
tantalizing. But the ship was ready and the Cap- 
tain inexorable. That tomorrow will be also a 
holiday is, he says, an additional reason for getting 
away, since all business will be at a standstill. 

February 23rd. There is a fascinating quality 
about a large river. In its onward course, it seems 
to acquire something like personality. The Missis- 
sippi, for example, has its source in a small lake 
situated among the highlands of Minnesota. It is 
but a modest stream at first. Children may play 
on its banks, or sail their tiny boats over its sur- 
face. But it goes persistently onward. Little riv- 
ulets flow into it; it widens and deepens. Now it 
winds through pleasant valleys; then along the 
base of sandy hills. Again, cliffs and rocky bluffs, 
border its banks. Forest trees grow near it — oaks, 
pines, maples. Freely it gives its water to nourish 
their roots, though still holding fast to its main 
purpose — its onward way. The Red river flows 
into it, and the turbulent Missouri. Towns and 
cities rise near it, and men use it for business and 
pleasure. Heavy barges of merchandise are trans- 
ported by it from one section to another. Steam- 
boats ply back and forth with passengers and 
40 



From New Orleans to Liverpool 4I 

freight. Large ships, heavily laden, sail over it on 
their way to foreign ports. The river, because of 
this, does not slacken its speed. It becomes more 
and more impetuous, stirred by some hidden im- 
pulse. 

What is this impulse and what its purpose? Is 
it driven by force from behind, or drawn by at- 
traction ahead? If we question the river, we are 
answered only by its constant onward rush. It has 
no other voice; it can give no other explanation. 

But we, who are sailing over it, have an inter- 
pretation of our own. We knovv^, or think we 
know, that it is seeking the Sea. Since it left its 
little lake in Minnesota, it has formed, at least, 
a partial border of many states or territories. It has 
been most useful to them. 

It has added to the beauty of their scenery. Yet 
it has never become a real part of them. It never 
can. But with the sea, it can, and must. It is akin 
to that. The water of both can mingle and become 
as one. Very soon, now, it will pour its flood into 
the Gulf of Mexico. Then both will flow on to- 
gether, until their blended waves find release or 
fulfilment, which ever it may be, in the immensity 
of the Atlantic Ocean. 

February 24th. Out at sea, with a stiff breeze. 
We struck on the bar coming down the river, and 
were detained between three and four hours. It took 
the united effort of three tugs to pull the ship over. 

Feb. 26. We came very near running down a 
little schooner last night, I heard a commotion on 
deck, and looked out of my state-room window, just 
in time to see some masts gliding by. The small 



42 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

craft to which they belonged seemed far, far below 
us. A voice called out, "Why don't you keep a bet- 
ter lookout on board that ship ?" 

A tragedy of the sea was barely averted that time, 
I am sure, but "A miss is as good as a mile," and 
"All is well, that ends well." 

March ist. Weather mild, more like April than 
March. M — . and I have spent many hours on 
deck. We have been interested in the songs or 
"Chanties" of the sailors. The crew we had on the 
passage to New Orleans did not appear to be in a 
musical mood. Perhaps they were oppressed by the 
dread of a contagious disease. This crew sing as an 
accompaniment of certain kinds of work, such as 
pulling ropes or weighing anchor, and almost invari- 
ably when pumping. Some of the men have good 
voices, and all seem to enjoy it. It is not always 
easy to distinguish the words, and they are not spec- 
ially interesting. What they sing is usually a sort 
of refrain, repeated over and over, but it is done 
with a heartiness that renders it enticing. When 
pulling ropes they sing this, or something similar. 

"Way, haul away, 

Haul away the bowline; 

Way haul away; haul away Joe." 

When pumping — this seems to be a favorite. 

Oh ! Banzo was no sailor , 

Banzo, boys — Banzo! 
So they shipped him on a whaler, 

Banzo, boys — Banzo." 



From New Orleans to Liverpool 43 

"He sailed the Pacific Ocean, 

Banzo, boys — Banzo! 
Where'er he had a notion, 

Banzo boys — Banzo." 

March 5th. Heavy gale last night, and the ship 
rolling. Couldn't sleep. Every one whom I know, 
or have known, seemed to pass before me during the 
night. Heard the tramp, tramp, of the men on deck, 
and wondered how they could keep on their feet. I 
recalled two Dutch proverbs that I have read or 
heard. "The good seaman is known in bad weath- 
er." And "A smooth sea never made a skilful ma- 
riner." 

March 9th. Wind and rain, most of the time, 
since I last wrote. Have scarcely been on deck even 
for a brief lookout. Some one has said — was it Dr. 
Johnson — that 

"Being in a ship, is being in jail, with the chance 
of being drowned." 

Yesterday we saw a sail ahead. This morning 
the vessel was still in sight. About noon, she "car- 
ried away" one of her sails. While the crew were 
getting up another, we overtook her and exchanged 
signals. Found her to be the Saranak, bound for 
Liverpool. We are gaining on her. Have been 
reading during the wild weather, "Nicholas Nickle- 
by," and "Martin Chuzzlewit." 

March 13th. An unusually pleasant day for this 
trip. The waves have had a gleeful dash, as though 
they were at play. Mr. B — . the first mate had 
some trouble with the men of the crew today, dur- 
ing which he received quite a wound on his head. 



44 ^ Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

He reported to the Captain who called the second 
mate, and both went forward. The men were quiet, 
however, and did not seem disposed to make further 
trouble. An assault upon an officer is considered a 
serious offence, and it has doubtless had a subduing 
effect. Prompt and unquestioning obedience is as 
vital a point on the sea, as in the army. Discipline 
must be maintained or the safety of all will be en- 
dangered. 

The Captain and mate have cleaned and loaded 
their pistols this afternoon. It has an ominous look, 
but is, probably, a preventive measure. "An ounce 
of prevention is worth a pound of cure." 

March 14th. A fine sunset — not of such dazz- 
ling splendor, as one of a few nights ago, but very 
beautiful. It reminds me of a description that 
Washington Irving gives in his "Tour on the 
Prairies." "The horizon after sunset was of a 
clear apple green, rising into delicate lake, which 
gradually lost itself in deep purple. One narrow 
cloud of mahogany colors, edged with amber and 
gold, floated in the West. And just beneath was 
the evening star, shining with the pure brilliancy of 
a diamond." 

March 1 8th. We have had a return of wild 
March winds and heavy showers. I have wiled 
away the time with reading. I found in a maga- 
zine some verses to "A Ship's Figurehead." Every 
ship has a Figure-head on its prow. Ours is a large 
gilded Eagle, with wide-spread wings, and fierce, 
forward-gazing eyes. From its point of vantage it 
can be easily seen by all passing vessels. There, 
breasting the waves, and showered by dashing spray, 



From New Orleans to Liverpool 45 

it has the appearance of being always on guard. 
This is one of the verses I found: 

"You tasted the brine through the viking years, 
And gazed wide-eyed on the lifting flood ; 
With the measureless song of the sea in your ears, — 
Her pulse in your blood." 

March 24th. Here we are in "Merrie Eng- 
land." We came around Holyhead Thursday 
morning. Before noon we took a pilot, and when 
evening came were anchored in the Mersey river. 
It was very cold with showers of rain, so that M — . 
and I could not stay on deck. The pilot remained 
on board through the night, and yesterday we pulled 
in to "dock." Only twenty-eight days from New 
Orleans. A short passage! 

The first person to come on board was Captain 
L — n. His ship, the T. B. Wales was just astern 
of us on Thursday. She is still lying in the river. 
Custom-house officers, runners from "sailor board- 
ing houses," laundresses, men and women with all 
sorts of things to sell, have been flocking on board, 
ever since our arrival. Some six or seven of them 
are now standing just outside of the dining cabin, 
waiting for an opportunity to speak with the Cap- 
tain. 

March 25th. Last evening we had a call from a 
police officer. He said that he had seen a "naked 
lamp" — that is, a lamp in which the flame is not 
enclosed in a chimney or globe — burning on board 
of our ship. This, it seems, is a violation of the 
"Code of Dock Regulations." He was very court- 
eous however, and excused the violation, since no 



46 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

copy of "Dock Regulations" had been given us. 
Early this morning one was sent on board. It is 
an instance of the minute, thorough and wide-reach- 
ing care, which England exercises over all that goes 
on within her realm. 

It seems however that the docks are one of Liver- 
pool's most striking features. They are considered 
wonderful pieces of engineering, with strong walls 
of masonry and massive lock-gates. Water, enter- 
ing a dock at high tide, is held inside by the gates, 
to float the ship after the tide has receded. Thus 
ships pass through the gates into basins of still 
water. If a vessel misses one high tide, it must wait 
over for the next before it can enter and reach the 
pier. 

Some how a large ship, held by chains and ropes, 
and with locked gates, in one of these still water 
basins called a dock, looks like a Captive Princess. 
Her position is safe, but ignoble. She appears 
to be brooding over her enforced imprisonment, 
longing indeed to be again moving freely over the 
wide sweep of ocean. This, however, is only an 
imaginative view of the situation. From all prac- 
tical and economic standpoints, the docks are most 
convenient, efiicient and desirable. 

I have copied a few entries from the Captain's 
Log Book. 

Ship National Eagle 

From New' Orleans to Liverpool. February 
2 1 St, 9 P. M. Crew on board. Cast ofE from 
Government Wharf and proceeded down river in 
tow of Steamer Ocean. 



From New Orleans to Liverpool 47 

February 22nd. Pleasant and the wind 
moderate from South and Eastward. At 9 
A. M. we were down to the anchorage, 
inside of the Bar at Pass Loutre. The 
Captain of the Steamer Ocean which had us 
in tow, gave orders for us to let go our anchors, to 
bring up the tow. We let go our starboard anchor 
according to orders — ^when about 60 fathoms of 
chain ran out. When we succeeded in holding it, 
it parted and we lost the anchor and many fathoms 
of chain attached. We laid them with the chain on 
the bottom until 1.30 P. M. Then the steamers 
Ocean and Anglo Saxon, came alongside, and made 
fast. We then hove in our chain, and proceeded 
down and on to the Bar. Got over with hard drag- 
ging in about five hours. The pilot and steamer 
then cast off from the ship and left. We hauled in 
the hawsers, secured the anchors, and cleared the 
decks, temporarily, for the night. Then made sail 
in a dead calm and let her drift. So ends the day. 

Feb. 23rd, at 4 A. M. A light breeze from the 
Northward. Secured the starboard bower, and 
stream anchor on top-gallant forecastle, and made 
everything fast about deck, ready for rough weather. 
Bent Foresail and Crossjack. Several sails in sight, 
bound outward. Ends brisk, with passing clouds. 

Latitude observation at noon 28° 27' north. 

Longitude by Chronometer 88° 04' west. 

Aneroid Barometer 30, 20 at noon. 

Sea Account 

February 24th. First part, brisk breeze from the 
north, and partially overcast. Middle and latter 



48 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

part the same. Employed in securing everything 
about ship — ready for a winter passage across the 
Atlantic. One of the crew laid up with a lame arm 
and leg, and a black eye — caused, he saySj by falling 
on the chain. It is more probable, that it came about 
in a drunken row on shore, for Mr. B — . the first 
mate, says that he was thrown over the rail on deck 
by boarding house runners the evening we left New 
Orleans. He was then so drunk that he could neith- 
er stand alone nor answer to his name. 

March 6th. Commences brisk and puffy from 
the North and Westward. At five P. M. the wind 
backened round into the South and Westward. 
Midnight, strong breeze from Southwest. Took in 
the light sails. At 5 A. M. it began to rain and 
blow heavily. Called all hands, and shortened sail, 
to reefed top sails and fore sail. Furled main sail 
and crossjack. Latter part. Set reefed top-gallant 
sails, over reefed top-sails. Ends with strong South- 
west gale and cloudy weather. 

March 8th. Commences 1.30 P. M. moderate, 
wind from the Eastward. At 3 P. M. it fell calm 
— a light breeze from the Southward. Turned out 
the reefs and made all sail. Throughout the night 
heavy squalls of wind and rain from the South 
and Westward. Reduced sail again to close reef- 
ed top sails. Main sail and jib furled. Morning, 
torrents of rain. At 8 A. M. wind shifted to the 
Northwest. Latter part brisk winds and overcast 
from that quarter. Made all prudent sail. Ship 
in sight ahead — bound Eastward. 



From New Orleans to Liverpool 49 

March 20th. Throughout this 24 hours, strong 
Southwest winds. First and middle part, partially 
cloudy. Latter part, thick and squally. At 9 A. 
M. struck soundings in 57 fathoms; fine sand, with 
black specks. At 11 A. M. sounded again in 67 
fathoms — mud. While sounding carried away both 
bob-stays. 

March 21st. First part strong Southwest gales 
and squally. At 3.20 P. M. Squared away again, 
having secured our bob-stays and set them up. At 
6.50 P. M. Hove to and sounded in 55 fathoms — 
gravel. Midnight, hard gales and heavy squalls. 
Barometer falling fast. At 5 A. M. squared awaj'^ 
again. At 8 A. M. in a heavy hail squall, the wind 
shifted to the North Westward. At 10 A. M. it 
began to clear. Made all prudent sail. Ends clear 
from Northwest. 

March 22nd. Strong Northwest winds and 
clear weather. At i P. M. made Light House, 
bearing by compass Southeast about four leagues 
distant by calculation. At 4 P. M. Tuskas Light 
House bore by compass Northwest by West about 
13 miles distant. Several sail in sight, bound both 
up and down channel. 

Liverpool and London 

As soon as the Captain had leisure to make ar- 
rangements for our stay in port, M — . and I started 
out to see Liverpool. We located the Exchange and 
St. George's Hail. Then, bearing these in mind as 
landmarks, we were able to find our way about very 



50 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

well. The organ in St. George's Hall is said to be 
the largest in the world. In one of the rooms Court 
is held. We went there one day while it was in 
session. A man in a powdered wig was addressing 
other men in powdered wigs. Policemen were 
walking about there, as everywhere in England. 
We saw in one room a model of a submarine, de- 
signed to be used for passages from Liverpool to 
Birkenhead. 

In the rear of the Hall stands a very old church. 
The yard around it, — even to the door, is paved 
with gravestones. The pews inside are old-fash- 
ioned with straight backs and narrow seats. The 
pews of the clergyman and church warden v/ere the 
only ones carpeted or cushioned. 

We have done some shopping and have been with 
Captain L. to the Zoo where we saw animals of 
many varieties and some beautiful birds. We have 
been also to Allsop's collection of wax figures. There 
I shook hands with the Reverend Mr. Spurgeon — 
in wax. We have also dined with Mr. G — n. an 
English friend of the Captain. Mr. G — n's two 
nieces, young girls like ourselves, were there. 

April 6th. Nothing special to record. Have 
wandered about the city, and have done some shop- 
ping. Liverpool is not rich in Art treasures, nor in 
memorial monuments, but it is rich in all industrial 
products, in soft carpets of enduring quality, in deli- 
cate china, in fine cultery, wonderful pottery and 
beautiful fabrics of many varieties. All these may 
be bought at considerably lower prices, than on our 
side of the Atlantic. 

Have taken afternoon tea, with Mr. G — n. and 



From New Orleans to Liverpool 51 

his nieces. Several Captains have called; also Cap- 
tain Franklin Hallett, who has given up seamanship 
as a vocation, and is now located in business here. 

April 13th. Yesterday we visited the ancient 
town of Chester. Upon arrival there we took a cab 
and drove to the Iron Works. The Captain wished 
to inspect the making of heavy chains and bolts, 
such as are used on large ships. On the way we 
passed fields already green. Peach trees were in 
blossom and early flowers were springing up. We 
saw the river Dee winding through meadows and 
thought of Kingsley's lines: 

"O, Mary, go and call the cattle home, 

And call the cattle home, 
Across the sands O'Dee." 

As we were crossing Grosvenor Bridge, the driv- 
er told us that Queen Victoia was the first person to 
pass over it. She was then but a girl. There are 
two very old houses in Chester. One was built in 
161 5. It is of wood and has elaborate carvings on 
the front, representing scenes from the Old Testa- 
ment. Cain killing Abel is one. The other house 
built in 1652 is on the same street. At the time of 
the "Plague," there was a death in every house in 
the town, except this. It bears the inscription. 
"God's providence is mine inheritance." 

From there we went to the far-famed ancient 
Cathedral. Our guide was a quaint elderly man, 
very much in love with his employment. He asked 
at once if we were Americans, and on receiving an 
affirmative answer, said 



52 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

"Then I suppose you want to see everything." 

He evidently meant that we should see everything 
and also that we should listen to a detailed account 
of all that we saw. The original building, he said, 
was erected in 1250. Most of the walls are still 
standing though they have been repaired. The backs 
and sides of some of the pews were elaborately 
carved. One of them represents the "Root of Jesse." 
On another is a carving of a little old man. "It is 
the man who takes care of the Cathedral," said the 
guide. This I suppose was intended for a witti- 
cism. Services are still held twice a day in this 
room. In another room were some battle flags 
used by the twenty-first regiment, at the battle of 
Bunker Hill. We were here also shown a very 
ancient and elaborate piece of needlework. It was 
a portrayal of Elymas, the sorceror, smitten with 
blindness by Paul. 

"One of your countrymen offered us three thou- 
sand guineas for that, last year," remarked the guide. 

On leaving the Cathedral we walked around just 
inside the old walls, built by the Romans, far, far 
back in the past. They are kept in good repair and 
are picturesque in aspect. We went into one of the 
towers, the one from which Charles I saw his troops 
defeated in a battle of 1642. "The Rows" are an- 
other interesting feature of Chester. These an- 
cient streets are lined with houses, so constructed 
that the second-story projects beyond the first, and 
is supported by pillars. These covered ways or 
"sidewalks" as we should say are most convenient 
in rainy weather. 

For luncheon, we went to "Blossoms," a quaint 



From New Orleans to Liverpool 53 

old-fashioned English Inn. We were served in a 
small room, a little parlor it seemed to be. We had 
a table entirely to ourselves. An immense joint of 
"roast beef" was, as we had expected, the "piece de 
resistance." 

April 15th. Have been to hear Dr. Raffles preach. 
Several Captains have called. One of them, whose 
ship has just arrived, brought a package sent by 
Mr. R — . of New Orleans. It contained various 
books and magazines for our entertainment on the 
next passage. 

April 26th. We have been to London. This 
trip, which I have taken so many times in imagina- 
tion, has become a reality. We took the North- 
western route. Every inch of land along the whole 
way seemed to be cultivated. It must be delight- 
ful when the trees and hedges are in full leafage. We 
had a cushioned and curtained compartment all to 
ourselves. It has a luxurious sound, but a car with 
ordinary seats, and a warmer temperature would 
have been more comfortable. 

A certain family hotel had been recommended 
to us by friends, but upon arrival we found that 
there were no vacant rooms. They, in turn, direct- 
ed us to another, where we secured good accommo- 
dations. M — . and I were cold and tired, so we 
went early to bed and soon fell asleep, even though 
we were for the first time, under the shadow of 
the "Dome of St. Paul's." 

When we went down the next morning break- 
fast was already being served — a typical English 
breakfast. It consisted of bacon and eggs, "kip- 
pered" fish, toast, orange marmalade, coffee and 



54 ^ ^^o. Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

tea. The marmalade was put on in the original 
jars; the toast, in English toast-racks, each slice 
by itself, thereby keeping its crispness. Those seat- 
ed at the table — all of them English apparently, 
were leisurely eating; the women conversing with 
each other at intervals; the men looking over the 
letters and papers which had just come on the 
morning mail. As we knew no one, and had no 
letters, we gave our undivided attention to the 
breakfast, though not, I hope, with any appearance 
of that unseemly haste, which is supposed to char- 
acterize Americans. Presently when bacon, eggs, 
fish and toast had disappeared, a fresh supply of 
each was brought on, and every one began to eat 
again, just as at first. That process was gone 
through with each morning of our stay. How 
many relays of food were served, and how long 
our English friends lingered at the table we never 
knew. London with its wonderful sights was 
awaiting us outside, and we usually asked to be 
excused during the second serving. 

The first day of our sight-seeing was clear and 
bright. Our initial trip was to the Thames Tun- 
nel. We walked its whole length and back again. 
It is well lighted, and has many small booths, at 
which we bought various souvenirs. It seemed 
indeed difficult to realize that a river was rolling 
above. 

"A small but mighty river. 

Mighty in the world of trade; 
Docks and bridges, merchant shipping, 
All with yellow fog — o'er laid." 



From New Orleans to Liverpool 55 

From there we went to Greenwich to visit the 
Marine Hospital. We saw the Chapel, also the 
Royal Charles ward, where we looked into the 
rooms of several pensioners. One of them, an 
elderly man, though still apparently vigorous, said 
that he was at the battle of New Orleans. He 
seemed pleased, when we told him that we had re- 
cently come from that city, and had seen the battle- 
ground. He asked if General Jackson were still 
living. In the gallery of paintings, we saw a por- 
trait of Kempenfelt and a model of the Royal 
George, 

"A land breeze shook the shrouds. 

And she was overset; 
Down went the Royal George 

With all her crew complete." 

"Brave Kempenfelt is gone 

His victories are o'er; 
And he and his eight hundred, 

Shall ply the waves no more." 

Some relics of Dr. Franklin's party were there 
in a glass case; also a coat worn by Nelson at the 
battle of the Nile, and a coat and hat that he wore 
at Trafalgar. Ou,r attention was called to a hole 
in the coat said to have been made by the bullet that 
killed him. The Observatory was not open to vis- 
itors, but we saw where the telescope is kept. 

The next morning we walked over London 
Bridge. Most of the ideas and associations con- 
nected, in my mind, with this bridge, have come 
from the reading of Dickens' various works. Even 



56 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

the Thames itself, closely connected, as it has been, 
with the growth and prominence of the wonderful 
city on its banks, has yet acquired much romantic 
interest from the pages of Dickens. 

From there we went to the Tower. Towers, it 
seems to me, would be a more appropriate name, 
since there are apparently several. The origin of 
this building is far back in the misty past. One of 
the guides, gaily attired, showed us the treasures 
stored there. He carried in his hand a cane or wand, 
which he used both to assist him in walking and 
also to indicate objects of special interest. These 
guides have received the sobriquet of the "Queen's 
Beef Eaters." 

We went first through the armories, which are in 
the White Tower. There we saw figures of kings 
and knights, on foot and on horseback, in the armor 
which was worn during this period of action. In 
one room was a figure of Queen Elizabeth mounted 
and attended by a page. In another room were in- 
struments of torture. Among them was the block, on 
which victims confined in the Tower were beheaded. 
Above it hung the veritable axe used for the purpose. 
From there we went to the Regalia room, which is 
in the Wakefield Tower. The collection of crown 
jewels is surmounted by Queen Victoria's crown 
which seemed to me the most beautiful of all. A 
very small crown is said to have been Anne Boleyn's. 
The mural tablets and the inscriptions made by 
noted prisoners, are in the Beauchamp Tower. We 
were shown a small room, where Sir Walter Raleigh 
was confined for twelve years. He is said to have 
written there his "History of the World." 



From New Orleans to Liverpool 57 

In the afternoon we went to St. Paul's Cathe- 
dral. We saw the great bell and the clock. We 
went up into the Golden Gallery from which we had 
a view of London, in its immensity, the outlines 
somewhat blurred, by the denseness of its smoky en- 
velope. In the Whispering Gallery one seems to 
get the clearest impression of the immense size of 
the interior. Notwithstanding this, if one speaks 
with lips close to the wall on one side, the sound 
passes around the room in some way, and can be 
distinctly heard on the other side. We met there a 
gentleman and his wife, who were also "going the 
rounds," and when, incidentally, it came out, that 
they were from New York, we met, not as strangers, 
but with the ease and abandon of well known 
friends. Then we descended into the crypt, where 
we saw the tombs of Nelson, and the Duke of Well- 
ington; also that of Sir Christopher Wren, the de- 
signer and builder of the Cathedral. 

Mrs. H — . our landlady went out with us one 
morning, and we were introduced to some of Lon- 
don's picturesque features. We went into the Bank 
of England, the "Old Lady of Thread and Needle 
Street," as it is sometimes called; also to the Royal 
Exchange, and to the Mansion House, where the 
Lord Mayor resides. We saw Guild Hall, with 
Gog and Magog, two wooden statues of gigantic 
size, standing in their respective niches. They have 
a mythological origin, and London is said to be very 
proud of them. 

The evening was spent at the Coleseum. A 
walk through the caverns, a moonlight view of 
Paris, and a panorama of Lisbon, before, during, 



58 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

and after its great earthquake, were some of the 
attractions. 

The larger part of one day was passed at the 
Crystal Palace. The grounds are beautifully laid 
out, and are adorned with fountains, miniature 
lakes, statues and figures of animals, wild and tame. 
Within it is like 'Tairy land." At Madame Tus- 
sands in the evening, we again met our recent ac- 
quaintances from New York. Three of Napoleon's 
carriages were on exhibition. I ventured to enter 
and take a seat in each. His military carriage is 
unique. By various ingenious contrivances, 
it is made to serve as carriage, table, bed, and dress- 
ing room. 

The day of days for us, was the one spent at 
Westminster Abbey. As some one has wittily said, 
"The Abbey is the only place, where tombs and 
memorial tablets are cheerful company. The in- 
scriptions of famous or familiar names is like the 
sudden meeting of long looked for friends." 

Immediately upon our entrance a black robed 
verger appeared to show us around. The windows 
of the Abbey are wonderfully fine. There are 
many chapels. That of Henry VH is the most 
ornate in architecture and sculpture. For many 
centuries only those of royal blood could be buried 
there. In one aisle is the tomb of Queen Elizabeth. 
In another, very near, is that of Mary, Queen of 
Scots. Rivals they were in life, but in death their 
dust mingles. In another chapel — that of St. Nich- 
olas, if I remember rightly — was this friendly 
epitaph on Lady Jane Clifford. 

"She lived, an honor to the family she was de- 



From New Orleans to Liverpool 59 

scended from, and the great comfort of that into 
which she was married, and died much lamented in 
November, 1679, aged 42 years and some months." 

We were shown many tombs and monuments of 
royalty and fashion, in which we strove to be duly 
interested. At lenth we reached the Poet's Corner, 
and there, much to our relief, the verger left us. 
It was so restful to omit what did not specially 
appeal to us, and to linger where we chose; to ob- 
serve for ourselves, rather than to listen to a mon- 
otonous list of titles and honors, of facts and figures. 
Nevertheless guides are useful at times like every- 
thing else. It would be difficult to do without 
them, in a city so ancient as London, and so filled 
with monuments and memories of the past. 

The tombs and monuments in the Poet's Corner 
were less rich and elaborate than those which we 
had already seen, but to us they made a stronger 
appeal. We felt more nearly akin to those who had 
won their memorials by force of intellect, rather 
than by an accident of birth. Our attention was 
called anew to the age of this venerable pile by 
such epitaphs as the following: 

Here lyes (expecting the second comminge of 
our Saviour Christ Jesus) the body of Edmund 
Spenser. The Prince of Poets in his tyme, whose 
divine spirrit needs noe other witnesse, than the 
works which he left behinde him. He was borne in 
London in the yeare 1553 and died in the yeare 
1598. 

Thomas Gray, sometimes called the British Pin- 
dar, has a monument with this inscription: 



6o A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

"No more the Grecian muse unrivalled reigns. 
To Britain, let the nations homage pay ; 
She felt a Homer's fire in Milton's strains, 
A Pindar's rapture in the lyre of Gray." 

Westminster school, founded as far back as the 
time of Queen Elizabeth, is kept in one part of the 
building. We saw two of the boys in the yard. 
One of them wore a peculiar costume — a sort of 
black robe and cap, which denotes, we were told, a 
certain school rank or advancement. His bright 
young face and fresh complexion were in striking 
contrast with his monkish attire, and the gloomy 
grandeur of his surroundings. 

It was very cold in the Abbey — even in the 
Poet's Corner, so we left, albeit with reluctance, 
and drove to St. Jame's Park — taking a look at 
Buckingham Palace, — and then down Regent 
Street, on which are some of the finest stores in 
London. There was a rumor that Queen Victoria 
would drive through certain streets, on her way 
to some afternoon "Function." We lingered 
awhile, hoping to get a glimpse of her, but a pen- 
etrating chill in the air made waiting most uncom- 
fortable. The thought of warmth and rest in our 
quiet rooms soon became more enticing, than the 
uncertani prospect of what at the best could be 
but a passing glimpse, so we gave the order to dri\e 
back. 

There were other features of London, that we 
wished much to visit, especially the British Museum 
and the National Gallery. I desired also to go to 
Kew Gardens, not only to see its palms, its Himala- 



From New Orleans to Liverpool 6l 

yan Cedars, and the rare flora in its greenhouses, 
but also for its probable connection with the historic 
past. Kew was once a part of the estate of Rich- 
mond Lodge, and there for a time lived George 
II with Queen Caroline. It was in those gardens, 
that Queen Caroline had her interview with the 
Duke of Argyle and Jennie Deans, as portrayed in 
the Heart of Midlothian. Other names, in some 
way connected with this locality are Gainsborough 
and Sir Peter Lely. 

The Captain however was getting uneasy. He 
felt that he ought to be in Liverpool. We returned 
by the Northern route. The country through 
which we passed was more rugged, and less highly 
cultivated than on the Northwestern. One other 
passenger was in our compartment. Mr. L — . a 
Boston merchant, though an Englishman by birth. 
He and the Captain soon found that they had 
many mutual friends and acquaintances. Mr. L — . 
had just returned from a trip to Paris, Lyons and 
Marseilles. He gave us amusing descriptions of 
those cities, and also various anecdotes about the 
Emperor and Empress of France. He is going to 
Boston on the next steamer. 

April 28. Have been unpacking and repacking 
our souvenirs of London, and have written several 
letters, for which we could not spare the time 
while there. We had to eat and sleep, but aside 
from that, every minute was dedicated to some 
phase of the "Historic City." I think it was Dr. 
Johnson who said : 

"When a man is tired of London, he is tired of 
life, for there is in London, all that life can afiord." 



62 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

A much later writer has said : 

"London is of all dates and of no date. She is 
the only city that can both work and dream. She 
is like a rich and sober color, made up of all 
shades." 

May 1st. The ship is nearly loaded with salt 
for Calcutta. If all goes well we shall soon be 
starting on a long voyage. Our London visit seems 
like a dream, though a very real one. I am still 
haunted by the thought 

"Of old, far-off, unhappy things, 
And battles long ago." 

May 3rd. M — . and I have been shopping. We 
bought materials of silk, muslin and lace, for new 
gowns, which wie are intending to make, when we 
are again out at sea. Dinner at Mr. G — s; our 
last visit, doubtless. 

May 5th. The ship is to leave the dock today. 
Large cages containing hens, chickens and ducks 
have been put on board, — a provision for future 
dinners. M — . and I spent the morning in prep- 
arations for the voyage. Captain L — . called up 
to say "good bye." He was the first person to 
welcome us on our arrival, and he will be — is 
doubtless, our last caller. His ship — the T. B. 
Wales — is now lying in the stream. 



FROM ENGLAND TO INDIA 
Around the Cape of Good Hope 

May 6th. We are at anchor in the Mersey 
river. The pilot is here — not the one we had com- 
ing, but one who looks and seems enough like him 
to be his brother. 

M — . and I did not see the crews when they 
came on board either in Boston or New Orleans, 
but last evening we watched the whole proceeding. 
A motley group they were indeed! Most of them 
were intoxicated. They staggered over the side of 
the ship, bringing with them their few possessions. 
Some of them apparently had nothing, but the 
clothes they stood in ; others brought small bundles ; 
a few had canvas bags of varying sizes. Several 
were "dead drunk," so to speak, drugged perhaps. 
These were hoisted on board like bales of merchan- 
dise, and were then roughly taken up and carried to 
their quarters in the forecastle. It was a discourag- 
ing spectacle. The Captain says, however, that 
many of them will doubtless prove to be able and 
experienced seamen, when they are on the broad 
ocean, away from liquor shops and the demoralizing 
influences of such localities. Sailors are proverb- 
ially improvident, spending their money freely, even 
foolishly. The wages it has taken them weeks, or 
months, to earn, will often be thrown away in a 
few days of riotous living. Then, being "hard up," 

63 



64 ^ Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

they must, perforce, take the first chance that offers 
and go to sea again. 

May 7th. Slowly steaming down St. George's 
Channel. The steamboat came to take us over the 
bar, about six o'clock this morning. We started 
at seven. I rose early that I might take a last 
glance at Liverpool. The T. B. Wales was still 
lying at anchor. 

May 14th. Just a week since we "set sail" — to 
use a phrase that has an old time savor — on our 
long trip to India — the land of which I have heard 
so much, and hoped that I might sometime see. 
St. Augustine says, "The world is a great book, of 
which they that never stir from home, have read but 
a page." 

It took M — . and me a day or so "to get our 
sea-legs on," or "to get on our sea-legs," which 
ever may be the more grammatical version. But 
now we can eat and sleep, and walk the swaying 
deck, with almost as much assurance as though on 
"Terra Firma." We propose to arrange — wind 
and weather permitting — a systematic course of 
reading, sewing and walking, for each day. It has 
been said : 

"That one who loves the sea, loves also the ship's 
routine. It has a certain dignity of sameness, like 
that of the ocean. There is health in it, and 
peace, and the satisfaction of accomplishment. The 
days seem to vanish into a great silence, in which 
the ship moves on with a sort of magical effect." 

May 17th. For the last day or two, we have 
been well tossed about. The ship lost two top-gal- 



From England to India 65 

lant masts this afternoon, which may have a ten- 
denc}' to lengthen our passage. 

We have a new steward on this trip. He is not 
such an adept in the art of fine cooking as our last 
one, but in many ways the change is for the better. 
He is a very dignified sort of person, rarely smiles, 
but is always pleasant. Whenever M — . or I ask 
him to do anything, his invariable response is "Yes, 
Miss." 

We have also a little gray kitten. She is very 
pretty. All her movements are graceful, and she 
has most amusing ways. If we leave any small 
article, like a bit of sewing-work, or a pen holder, 
within her reach she will catch it up and run out of 
the room with it, glancing back at us to see if we 
are following her. She is moreover a very aristo- 
cratic little being. The steward tries to feed her 
in his pantry or in the dining cabin, but she insists 
upon bringing her food into the after cabin, where 
we are usually sitting, and eating it there. 

May 2 1 St. As I was walking on deck yesterday, 
a little swallow flew on board. One of the sailor? 
caught it and gave it to me. The frail little thing 
seemed quite tired. It would perch on my hand or 
shoulder, without a sign of fear. I offered it water 
and food, but it refused both. I put it in a bas- 
ket for the night. This morning I let it out. It 
fluttered about the cabin windows as though anxious 
to get away. It still refused food, so I took it on 
deck and gave it freedom, a useless gift, I fear, out 
on this wide ocean far from land. 

May 24th. This afternoon I have been reading 
about winds in the Captain's Sailing Directory. 



66 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

At home, I thought of wind, only in a general 
way — as a cold wind, or a warm one; or as com- 
ing from the north, south, east or west. Out on 
the ocean however, winds become a more important 
and even personal matter. A Danish proverb runs 
thus, 

"He that is at sea, must either sail or sink." 

Naturally, one would prefer to sail! But aim- 
less sailing is an unprofitable pursuit. Another 
proverb says, "It is skill, not strength, that governs 
a ship." That is very true. By skillful tacking — 
guiding a vessel on its desired course, by a careful 
manipulation of the sails — even a "head wind" will 
not prevent her from making some progress in the 
right direction. 

In certain regions moreover, a study of the winds 
that prevail, and their variations, is essential to 
satisfactory results. Constant or perpetual winds 
are those that blow always in the same direction. 
These are called Trade winds. They extend, gen- 
erally, to about twenty-eight degrees (28°) each 
side of the equator, with a space of light variable 
winds between them. The northeast and southeast 
Trade winds prevail in the open sea, in the Atlantic 
and Pacific Oceans, being most steady in the latter. 
The southeast Trade winds prevail in the Indian 
Ocean, from 10° to 28° South. 

Winds which blow one half the year in one 
direction, and the other half in a contrary direction, 
are called Monsoons. These are very steady in East 
Indian seas, especially on the eastern side of the Bay 



From England to India 67 

of Bengal. The Southwest Monsoons, prevail from 
April to October, between the equator and tropic 
of Cancer. The Northwest Monsoons from Oc- 
tober to May. 

Gales of wind generally occur beyond the tropics, 
outside of limits of Trade winds. Hurricanes are 
most furious near the tropics, and in the vicinity 
of land or islands. They seldom happen beyond 
the tropics, nor nearer to the equators than nine 
or ten degrees, North or South. They are com- 
mon near the coasts of India, and especially in the 
Bay of Bengal, at the changing of the Monsoons. 
White squalls are dangerous. The mark of them 
is white broken water on the surface of the sea. 
Blowing weather prevails more in dark nights, than 
in moonlight. 

Since we are on our way to India, this is most 
interesting. If all goes well, we shall round the 
Cape of Good Hope, sail over the Indian Ocean, 
and up the Bay of Bengal. Trade winds and mon- 
soons will waft us on our way. Hurricanes and 
white squalls, may, or may not, come within our 
ken. 

May 27th. We are now in the region of the 
Trade winds. Have passed the Western Islands, 
also the Madeira and Canary Islands. The man- 
ner of finding just where the ship is each day, or 
even each hour, seems wonderful to a novice, though 
to the Captain, it is a "many times told tale." A 
sextant and a chronometer are the principal instru- 
ments used. A sextant is an instrument for measur- 
ing angles. By means of screws and reflectors, and 
looking through a circular hole, the sun, wherever 



68 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

it may be, is brought down to the horizon. So 
long as it appears to be rising from it, it is not 
yet noon. When it begins to dip, it is twelve 
o'clock. 

The Captain takes the sextant and brings it down 
to the level of the horizon. When it begins to dip, 
he looks at his watch, to see how many seconds it 
is from twelve, and how many seconds variation 
there is between the present day and the day be- 
fore. Then by a mathematical calculation (there 
are so many miles to a second or a minute) he finds 
the exact latitude. He sets his watch each day by 
the sun, and can thus tell, each day, the difference 
in time. The Chronometer is set and kept at 
Greenwich time, and comparing the watch, set 
by the sun each day with Greenwich time, he finds 
the longitude. Thus by latitude and longitude, he 
can find his exact position on a chart. 

When the sun does not shine, the ship's approxi- 
mate position is found by dead reckoning (so call- 
ed). This is done by throwing the log, or sound- 
ing — every few hours, to find how many knots the 
ship is going. So many knots means so many miles. 
If it is rough, or the wind ahead, allowance must 
be made for drifting or swerving from the true 
course, otherwise the number of miles given may 
not indicate the true position. Safety depends 
largely on the judgment of those in command. 

I have been attempting to learn how to find the 
position of the ship, both by observation of the sun, 
and by dead reckoning. Thus far, I fear, I have 
not proved an apt pupil. The Captain's verdict 
is ambiguous. He says that I am doing as well 



From England to India 69 

as a passenger he once had — a highly educated man 
by the way. The ship was bound for Calcutta, 
but Mr. L — . according to his own reckoning, 
would have landed her in the centre of Ceylon. 

June 1st. A fitting day for the reign of summer 
to begin. I have felt the need of some flowers as 
a tribute, but neither my own little garden at home, 
nor the beautiful Norton woods are accessible. This 
morning the sun was veiled by fleecy clouds; at 
noon it shone clear and bright; now the clouds are 
again gathering, and we shall have a brilliant sun- 
set. Yesterday we passed the Cape Verde islands. 
There are two ships in sight. One seems to be leav- 
ing us behind — the first one to do so thus far on 
this passage. We have seen many porpoises leap- 
ing through the water, also some stormy petrels, 
and a nautilus or "Portugese Man of War," as the 
sailors call it. 

June 6th. Last evening we saw many shining 
particles in the wake of the ship. Some of them 
were quite large. The sea was still, and it looked 
almost like another sky, bespangled with stars. We 
are now in the region of the equatorial calms. The 
ship seems scarcely to move. It is very warm. The 
thermometer stands at 88° in a shaded corner of 
the Captain's stateroom. We had a slight shower 
about noon, the first we have had for three weeks. 
During the shower, the Captain called us on deck 
to see a water-spout. What we saw, was a large 
dark column, stretching, apparently, from the sur- 
face of the ocean up into the clouds. The water 
for a considerable space about it, seemed to be vio- 
lently agitated. 



70 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

"It is some two or three miles away," said the 
Captain, "but it is a large one, and I am glad that 
it is no nearer." 

While on deck we also saw a rainbow, the first 
one we have seen at sea. The ships, that were in 
company with us a few days ago, are still in sight. 
One of them keeps a little in advance of us. Num- 
erous small creatuf-es, belonging to the Nautilus 
family, are gliding by. Mr. B — . drew up one for 
Our inspection. There are, he says, several varie- 
ties. This one had long purple strings or feelers, 
which go down into the water. There was no 
shell. Instead there seemed to be a thin skin, 
inflated with air. When seen in the sunlight it 
was quite effective. I was conscious, nevertheless, 
of keen disappointment. "Can this ungainly thing," 
I said to myself, "be in very truth:" 

"That ship of pearl, which poets feign 
Sails the unshadowed main." 

June 13th. Just a week since I have written 
here. Last evening, we saw for the first time the 
stars in Southern latitude. Some of the Southern 
Constellations will soon be visible. The foremost 
ship has been in company with us until this noon. 
Then she changed her direction and will doubtless 
soon disappear in the dim distance. The Captain 
attempted to exchange signals with her, but could 
not make out her numbers. We are now overtak- 
ing another ship. Thus we meet and part on these 
wide ocean spaces, knowing nothing of our tem- 
porary neighbors. 



From England to India 71 

For dinner today we had an albatross, which the 
steward caught and roasted. It was very palatable 
— a pleasant change of diet. The crew we have 
now seems to be as fond of singing as the one we 
had on the trip to Liverpool. The fine mild 
weather, we are having, is favorable for it. Not 
only do they sing as an accompaniment of work, 
but in the evenings also. Those, who are off duty, 
get together on the forward part of the deck and 
sing for an hour or more. Some of them have 
small musical instruments upon which they play. 
The usual rude chanties are sung. I have succeeded 
in capturing the words of two or three additional 
ones. This is one: 

"London town is burning; 
Oh run with the bullgine run ! 
Way, yay ; way, yay, yas ! 
Oh, run with the bullgine run!" 

This one has a little more point: 

"I often have been told. 
That the British seamen bold. 
Cold beat the tars of France, 
Neat and handy, O! 

But they never got their match; 
'Till the Yankees did them catch ; 
For the Yankee tars for fighting. 
Are the dandy, O!" 

This crew has proved, as the Captain said it 
might, a fairly efficient and peaceable one, as crews 
go. It is made up of various nationalities — Eng- 



72 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

lish, Irish, Russian, Portugese, Scandinavian. The 
latter are said to make the best sailors. They are 
neat, obedient and willing to work. They seem 
also to have a knack at repairing sails and rigging — 
a very useful knack, since both are liable to give out 
on long passages. The worst men to deal with, 
according to the Captain, are "Liverpool Irishmen." 
It is seldom that many native-born Americans are 
found among the crews. Those, beginning as 
"boys," usually skip the grade of common sailor, 
rising rapidly to the position of third mate, and 
from that, upward to second, and from that to first 
or chief mate. Then, if they are enterprising and 
have the requisite amount of nautical knowledge, 
they soon reach the rank of Captain. These var- 
ious grades of rank, from Captain down to cabin 
boy, are almost as strictly defined and observed, 
on board American Merchant Ships, as on Naval 
Craft. Indeed it amounts almost to what may be 
termed naval caste. 

June 17th. I have been picturing to myself, what 
various friends at home are doing today. I wonder 
if any of them have bestowed a thought upon us, 
so far away upon the deep, blue ocean. M — . and 
I keep busy with dress making and other sewing, 
varied by reading. To many women, the monotony 
of a long voyage becomes almost unbearable. With 
no household occupations — those vast consumers of 
time — no callers nor visitors, no letters nor papers, 
bringing news from the world outside, they know 
not how to fill the days. To us, however, this 
monotonoy seems but a trifle, compared with the 
opportunity thus gained, to visit foreign countries. 



From England to India 73 

There is much moreover, that is of interest in the 
life here. A ship, far out at sea, is a little world in 
itself. All the work on board is carefully sys- 
tematized. Each one has a part and is responsible 
for that part. The higher the rank, the greater the 
responsibility. One essential duty of a Captain is 
to make his passages from port to port, as short as 
possible with a due regard for safety. The nights 
therefore must be utilized as well as the days. Ocean 
miles may be traversed and left behind, during the 
dark hours, but to accomplish this, a "lookout" must 
be kept to avoid collisions, and sails must be changed 
with changing winds, or reefed in sudden squalls. 
One of the mates, therefore, with a part of the 
crew, must be always on deck and on duty. The 
first watch, usually called the starboard watch, goes 
on duty at eight o'clock P. M., and remains until 
midnight. The men of this watch then go down, 
and "turn in," to use a sea phrase, and the second 
or third mate, with the other half of the crew go on 
deck and remain until four o'clock A. M. 

With the morning comes another routine. The 
men have their breakfast. Then one of the mates, 
usually the second or third, calls out after this 
fashion, 

"Turn to there, forward, sway up the gear, and 
wash down decks." 

The men answer "Aye, Aye Sir," and proceed to 
carry out the order, with buckets of water, brooms, 
and sand. The gear is coiled up; the decks, upper 
and lower, are drenched with water, and then 
"swabbed" until drj^; the paint and gratings are 
wiped, and the brass-work is polished. Then the 



74 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

pumps are "manned" and one or more rousing 
"chanties" are sung. 

The Captain comes on deck to take his morning 
sights; somebody "heaves the log," the man at the 
wheel is relieved, and a fresh watch goes on duty 

The orders given for changing or "trimming" 
the sails are also interesting. The Captain or 
first mate, standing on the upper deck, gives, for 
instance, this order. 

"Clew up the royals; set the studding-sails." 
The second mate, on the lower deck repeats it, 
perhaps in this way, 

"Clew-p the royals; set the stunsails." 
Then from far forward, this will come floating 
back, "Aye, Aye Sir." 

"Clewp the rials; set the stunsails." 
Various preconceived ideas of mine, concerning 
life on shipboard, have however been somewhat 
rudely shaken. I was expecting to find quiet little 
nooks, on deck, where, unseen and undisturbed, I 
might sit, watching the waves and clouds, indulge 
in day dreams, or engross myself in some obstruse or 
thrilling book. The duties, pursuits and pleasures 
of home and school life, had hitherto left me little 
leisure for day-dreaming. The leisure was now 
mine, but not the solitude. The after deck is the 
Captain's parade ground and field of action. One 
of the mates is usually on duty there, and at any 
time a dozen men may be called aft, to "pull and 
haul" the ropes, by which sails are changed to take 
advantage of varying winds. There is always a 
man at the wheel, which is in the extreme aft part 
of the ship. His duty is to watch the compass in 



From England to India 75 

the binnacle before him, and to move his wheel ac- 
cordingly. From his vantage ground there, how- 
ever, he has an opportunity to see all that goes on in 
the vicinity. Forward of the main mast M — . and 
I are not allowed to go, but seclusion there would 
be impossible, for there the crew live and do most 
of their work. 

June igth. Caught a glimpse of land today — 
the island of Trinidad. Passed another vessel this 
morning. We were so near her for awhile, that 
we could easily read her name with a glass. It 
was the Mary E. Campbell. Mr, O — . said that 
the cook we had on the trip to Liverpool, shipped 
on her. I am quite sure that I saw him leaning 
over the side as though looking at us. 

Last evening the Captain pointed out to us, the 
Constellation of the Southern Cross. It is not 
so well defined nor so conspicuous as I had sup- 
posed. 

June 2 1 St. Passed another ship. We were so 
near that we could read her name on the stern. It 
was the Excellent of Liverpool. This evening, 
while on deck, we saw the star, Venus, just on the 
circle of the moon, which is now in its first quarter. 
Very soon it passed behind the dark part of the 
moon, and was lost from view for a half hour or 
more. Then it emerged from the illuminated por- 
tion, so that we have now, I suppose, witnessed an 
eclipse of Venus. We also saw two bright clouds, 
known as the Magellan clouds. I am reading 
Swedenborg's "Earths in the Universe." 

June 23rd. Very slight happenings are enough 
to vary the monotonous routine of life on shipboard. 



j6 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

Our little grey kitten has been missing for a day 
or two. She steals down between decks occasion- 
ally, looking for possible mice. This morning dawn- 
ed with such a storm of wind and rain, that the 
Captain thought he might have to give an order 
to cork down the hatches. We wanted to find the 
kitten before that was done, so the steward went 
down but failed to find her. Then Mr. W — . the 
second mate went, but he also was unsuccessful. 
As a last expedient, the Captain allowed M — . and 
me to go. While we wandered about there in the 
dim light, knowing that tons and tons of salt were 
around and beneath us, I could imagine m5^self in 
a cavern, far from the abodes of men. To our 
relief, our calls were soon answered by faint 
"mews," and the kitten came creeping out from a 
dark corner, quite inaccessible to any being less 
lilliputian than herself. 

July 4th. Latitude 35° 52' South. Longitude 
5° 10' East. This is the "Glorious Fourth," It 
seems scarcely possible, for it is so cold here, and 
so quiet. The thermometer stands at 58°. The 
steward attempted to start a fire in the dining 
cabin this morning, but it smoked so that he had to 
give it up. He is now making another attempt. 
I hope it may prove a success. The weather has 
been rough most of the time since I last wrote. 
The waves have run high, and the decks have been 
flooded. One great wave broke over the side of the 
ship with such force and volume, that it tore off the 
lower and top-gallant bulwarks, stove one of the 
boats, and knocked the main hatch-house into a 
shapeless mass of wreckage. Several sails were split 



From England to India 77 

and blown away. This is perhaps to be expected 
since we are now in Southern latitude and it is 
winter here. I recall an Italian proverb: 

"No one ought to complain of the sea, who re- 
turns to it a second time." 

This is now my third venture, so I must not 
complain of anything short of shipwreck. 

M — . and I have amused ourselves by feeding 
the Cape Pigeons. Large flocks of them fly about 
the ship or follow in her wake, greedily eating all 
that is thrown to them. We feed them with 
"hard bread," of which there seems to be an un- 
limited supply. The steward and cook, doubtless, 
throw them all the scraps from the table. 

July 1 8th. The days since I last wrote have 
been uncomfortable ones, made so by cold weather, 
the tossing of turbulent waves, and by more or less 
smoke from the stove in the cabin. We have 
managed however to do some sewing and much 
reading. We had another storm last night. This 
morning we are in the longitude of the Cape of 
Good Hope. The name has an auspicious sound. 
It should be, one would think, a name of happy 
omen. There is a tradition however that it was 
formerly called the "Cape of Storms." Vessels 
fought their ■ way around it, from the Atlantic 
Ocean, on one side, to the Indian Ocean on the 
other, and back from Indian to Atlantic on their 
return. Many went down in the unequal struggle, 
especially when it was winter in that latitude. A 
more definite and historic version seems to be, that 
this cape was named Cape Tormentoso by Bartholo- 
mew Gosnold, as early as i486, and that its present 
name was given by King John II, of Portugal. 



78 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

It would seem that Lieutenant Maury of the 
United States Navy, has done much to make this 
change of name an appropriate one. In his study 
of winds and ocean currents, he rendered an impor- 
tant service by his careful research in this matter 
of rounding the Cape of Good Hope. Instead of 
sailing near it, as ships had been in the habit of 
doing, he advised them, especially on the outward 
trip, to run westward, thus falling in with the pre- 
vailing westerly winds, and then south to 48° 
thereby rounding the Cape, considerably below the 
former route. It isn't a holiday pastime even 
now, I judge, from the buffetings we have had, 
and are still having, but "it is an improvement," 
the Captain says, "on the former way." 

Just about noon today, there was a beautiful rain- 
bow — the brightest one I have ever seen. I could 
never before clearly distinguish all of the seven col- 
ors. In this one, each was distinctly defined. 

July 29. Nothing of much interest has occurred 
since I last wrote. One day is much like another. 
The weather has been cool but fairly pleasant. The 
Cape pigeons are gradually leaving us, or perhaps it 
is more accurate to say that we are taking leave of 
them — sailing away from their special locality. Only 
three came for breakfast this morning. 

August I St. An almost perfect calm has pre- 
vailed throughout yesterday and today. We are 
going only about three or four knots an hour. I 
recall a line of Coleridge : 

"As idle as a painted ship upon a painted Ocean." 

August 1 6th. We have been out one hundred 
and one days: We are having strong southwest 



From England to India 79 

monsoons, and it is very warm. The Captain hopes 
to take a pilot in a day or two. 

August 18. Struck soundings yesterday after- 
noon, and this morning took a pilot — Mr. Bond. 
He brought with him, a leadsman, a native servant, 
a large trunk, a small trunk, one box, three bags 
and a small parcel. Our long voyage is virtually 
over, but the river is yet before us. That is per- 
haps more of a menace than the open sea. 

The Eddystone, Captain Grant, with whom we 
exchanged signals a few days ago is just behind us. 

Ship National Eagle 

From Liverpool towards Calcutta. George 

Matthews, Master. 

Monday, May 7th. At 7 A. M., the steam tug, 
Fire King alongside. Hove up our anchor, and 
proceeded down the Mersey. At 9.35 A. M. passed 
the bell-buoy. At 10 A. M. the pilot and tug-boat 
left the ship. We then made sail and proceeded 
on our way. At noon. Great Ormes Head bore 
Southwest by South by compass, from 7 to 8 miles 
distant. We now change from civil to sea account. 

Tuesday, May 8th. Comes in moderate from the 
South and Eastward. At 6 P. M. Point Lymas 
bore South by East by compass, some three leagues 
distant by calculation. At midnight the Skerries 
Light bore Southwest by South by compass, about 
2 leagues distant. At 1.30 A. M., Holyhead Light 
bore by compass. South, 4 leagues distant. Sker- 
ries, about Southeast. At 5.30 A. M. tacked ship 



8o A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

to the South and Eastward. Thick fog. Wind 
Southwest. At 9 A. M., the fog cleared partially. 
Stood in, and made Bardsig Island. Tacked again 
at 9.45 A. M., Branch-pool Head, bearing by com- 
pass. South, about 7 miles distant by calculation. 
The day ends brisk and hazy from the South and 
Westward. 

May 9th. Commences brisk from the South and 
Westward. Hazy weather. At 2.30 P. M., tack- 
ed to the South and Eastward. Wicklow Head, 
bearing by compass, about 3 leagues distant, by 
calculation. At 8 P. M. tacked again to the North 
and Westward. At 11 P. M. the wind, shifting 
suddenly in a squall, to the Northward, took the 
ship aback. Braced round the yards, and kept 
off, Southward by Westward. In the morning 
made all sail. Wind from Noi'thwest. Ends 
moderate from the Westward. The Irish Coast 
still in sight. 

Latitude, observation at noon, 51° 48' North. 
Longitude by Chronometer 6° 37' West. 
Aneroid Barometer, 29, 70 at noon. 

May 10. Commences moderate from the South 
and Westward, with fine clear weather. At 4 P. 
M., nearly calm. At 5.30 P. M. bore round to 
the North and Westward. Middle and latter part, 
rain and thick fog. Ends the same. 

Latitude by Dead Reckoning, 50° 36' North. 
Longitude by Dead Reckoning, 8° 34' West. 
Barometer 29, 46 at noon. 



From England to India 8 1 

Monday, May 14. First part brisk and hazy 
from South, Southwest to South, Southeast. At 6 
A. M. wind shifted to the Westward. Braced 
round the yards and put her head to the Southward. 
Squally weather. Washed the trail boards all off 
on the starboard side of the stern, and a part on the 
Port side. 

Two men on the sick list. 

Thursday, May 17th. Commences with strong 
Southwest winds and thick hazy weather. At 10.30 
A, M. in a squall from the Westward carried away 
the foretop-gallant mast, square with the cap on the 
fore topmast head, and the forward cross tree ; also 
the main-royal and sky-sail mast, just above the 
top-gallant rigging. Called all hands to clear the 
wreck. Ends as above. 

May 1 8th. First part fresh breezes from West, 
Southwest to Southwest with thick rainy weather. 
All hands employed in getting down broken spars 
and rigging and split sails. The main top-gallant 
stay sail badly torn. The ship very wet, plunging 
bows under, and floading the decks. Two men laid 
up with sores. 

May 19th. Throughout this 24 hours, light 
winds from Northwest round to Southwest. Got 
an opportunity this forenoon to set up the back 
ropes, jib and flying jib, stays and guys, for the first 
time since we sailed. It has never been smooth 
enough before. Ends with a gentle breeze and fine 
weather. Wind from South, Southwest to South. 



82 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

May 24. Throughout this 24 hours, light 
Northeastwardly wind, with fine clear weather and 
smooth sea. Sent up main top-gallant and royal 
yards. Bent the sails and set them. Also set on 
the larboard — fore top-mast, lower end top-gallant 
studding sails. Ends fine. 

May 25th. First and middle part of this 24 
hours, light breezes from the North and Eastward 
with fine Trades's-like weather. Latter part brisk. 
Unbent mizzen-topsail and top-gallant sails, jib 
and fore-topmast stay-sail, and bent our old ones. 
Ends as above. 

May 26. Commences with brisk Trades from 
North, Northeast with fine clear weather. Unbent 
our best main top-sails, and bent our old ones. 
Middle and latter part, strong Northeast Trades 
and hazy weather. Took in top-gallant studding- 
sails, and main top-gallant stay-sails. Ends fine. 

May 29. Throughout this 24 hours, light 

Trades, and hazy weather. Unbent our best main 

sail to stitch and repair it, and bent our old one. 
Ends fine. 

May 30th. Throughout this 24 hours, brisk and 
clear from North, Northeast to Northeast by 
North. Water very green, as if on soundings, with 
the appearance of considerable current. Ends the 
same. 

June 2nd. Commences with light winds from 
North and Eastward. Gave our decks a coating 
composed of equal parts of tar and raw linseed 



From England to India 83 

oil. Crew employed in middle stitching and re- 
pairing our best suit of sails, lately unbent. Two 
ships in sight off our Lee Beam. 

I 
I 

June 6th. Commences calm and very hot. Ther- 
mometer in shade in the cabin stands at 88°. At 
5 P. M. a squall from Northward. Throughout 
the night, light breeze from that quarter. Three 
ships in sight — four to five miles from us. 

June 8th. Throughout this 24 hours light airs 
and rain. Caught about 800 gallons of fresh water. 
Our company keepers still in sight, some four miles 
away on our starboard beam. 

June 10. Commences nearly calm. At 3.30 P. 
M. took a light breeze from the South and East- 
ward. Middle and latter part light Trades from 
South Southeast with fine weather. Our company- 
keepers still in sight, about 5 miles off on our lee- 
bow. Another ship and also a Barque in sight 
off our lee-beam — bound South, across the Line. 
Ends with fine Trade's-like looking weather. 

June 13th. Throughout this 24 hours, gentle 
Trades from South Southeast with fine weather. 
Lost sight of our special company-keeper yesterday 
afternoon. We outsailed him. Gradually sunk him 
off the lee-beam, after being in company 12 days. 

June 16. Brisk Trades from Southeast to South- 
east by East. Got up our potatoes, and had them 
sprouted and also whitewashed to keep them from 



84 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

the rats. Have now about 1-3 of what we had 
when we left Liverpool — probably about 1,000 
pounds. 

June 19th. Commences with light breezes and 
cloudy weather. At 10.30 A. M. passed an Eng- 
lish three-masted schooner, homeward bound. Set 
out ship's numbers to get reported. All hands em- 
ployed in cleaning the paint of the iron work about 
the ship and repainting with red lead. 

June 20th. At 2 P. M. made the Island of 
Trinidad, bearing Southwest by South by compass, 
about 50 miles distant by calculating. A ship and 
a barque in company off our lee-beam, bound south, 

June 22nd. All hands employed in painting ship 
inside — bulwarks, sails, etc. At 2.30 P. M. came 
up and passed to leeward of Ship Excellent of Liv- 
erpool. Two ships in sight from deck, and another 
from aloft, all bound Southeastward around the 
Cape. 

June 25th. Throughout this 24 hours, strong 
breezes, light breezes, calms, sharp lightning, tor- 
rents of rain, wind flying around from Northwest 
to Southeast and from Southeast to East and North. 
The sea extremely turbulent, and the ship wallow- 
ing, plunging and setting down her stern into it 
hard enough to make every bone in her body ache. 
Altogether the most uncomfortable night of the 
passage thus far. Ends about the same but without 
rain. 



From England to India 85 

July 2nd. Throughout this 24 hours, strong 
South Southwest gales with heavy squalls of rain 
and hail, and a high turbulent sea, causing the ship 
to roll and plunge heavily. During the first part 
of the gale, split the mizzen topsail; blew the 
fore-top gallant sail away, so as to be past repairing. 
We have now some half-dozen sails, badly split, and 
no weather suitable for repairing them. At 8.30 
A. M. shipped at sea, which staved the after hatch- 
house, and the starboard boat housed upon it, and 
washed o£E a large part of lower and top-gallant 
bulwark, besides doing much other damage. Dur- 
ing the morning passed a ship showing French 
colors. 

July 3rd. Comes in with heavy gales attended 
by rains and hail squalls. All hands employed in 
taking in, and securing the sails; cleaning and re- 
pairing things on deck; unbending split sails, and 
bending others in their places. 

July 4th. Strong Southwest gales attended with 
heavy squalls. The ship very wet, fore and aft. 
At 8 P. M. carried away the main top-mast, stay 
sail-stay. This morning, repaired and set it up 
again. Ends with strong breezes and squally 
weather. 

July 8th. Commences with fresh breezes from 
Northwest and squally. At 2 P. M. began to 
shorten sail; reefed the upper topsails and top- 
gallant sails; close-reefed the main-sail; furled 
crotchet and jibs. At 7 P. M. reefed the fore 



86 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

sail, furled the main sail. Heavy gale from North- 
west by North, attended by heavy rains, and a very 
irregular, cross sea. The ship rolling, and the waves 
pouring in keeping the decks continually flooded. 
At 1.30 A. M. called all hands to shorten sail, 
to three close-reefed topsails. 

At 3 A. M. in a heavy squall during which the 
wind shifted to the Westward, ship rolled so heavily 
as to roll our quarter-boat, into a combing sea. It 
stove her, broke her down amidship and started 
every knee in her. Ends squally. 

We are now up with and past the Cape. 62 days 
out. 

July 9th. Begins with gales from Southwest- 
ward and unsettled weather. Middle and latter 
part more moderate. Commenced repairing dam- 
ages. Turned out the reefs, and made all sail again 
by the wind. 

July 13th. Commences with strong wind from 
North Northwest and cloudy. At 8 A. M. rain. 
Took in top-gallant sails; reefed top-sail and 
courses; furled mainsail and crotchet. At 9 P. M. 
the wind shifted in a squall to the Southwest. 
Braced round the yards. Ends moderate from the 
Southward. Have had about 50 miles South South- 
west current the last two days. 

July 1 8th. First part light wind from the West- 
ward. Middle and latter part brisk from same 
quarter with occasional rain showers. All drawing 
sails set. Have had 36 miles current. South by 
East y2 East. 



From England to India 87 

August 9th. Light Trades from South Southeast 
with fine warm weather; uncommonly so for this 
latitude, i knot westerly current. Employed in 
turning up rigging. 

August nth. Commences calm and very hot. 
Thermometer stands at 104°. Heavy thunder with 
sharp forked lightning, y^ knot westerly current. 

August 15th. Gentle Southwest monsoons and 
fine weather. Gave the decks a coat of tar and oil. 
Easterly current 18 miles. 

August 17th. Commences brisk and hazy from 
the southwest. Exchanged signals with the Ameri- 
can Ship Eddystone, Captain Grant, from Liver- 
pool for Calcutta. We kept company through the 
remainder of the 24 hours. Middle and latter 
part, brisk southwest monsoons with hot hazy 
weather. Got up our chains, and other anchor gear, 
and bent them. 

August 1 8th. Commences brisk from the South- 
westward, with sultry overcast weather. Soon after 
I P. M. ran into discolored water. Hove the lead, 
but got no bottom, as the studding-sails were out, 
and the ship was going nine knots. At 2 P. M. got 
bottom, with the deep-sea lead in 20 fathoms — 
stones and gravel. Ship going 6 or 7 knots. At 
2.30 P. M. made False Point Light House, bear- 
ing by compass. North by West y^ West. — about 
three leagues distant. At 10 P. M. made the Blue 
Light from the Light Ship on the Ridge. At 1 1 .3c 



88 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

P. M. hove to. The Light Ship bearing North by 
West 3^ West, about two leagues distant by cal- 
culation. At 6.30 A. M. finding no Pilot about 
the Ridge, squared away and ran for the Sand 
Head Pilot Station. At 10.30 A. M. got a pilot — 
Mr. Alfred Bond. Hauled the ship by the wind, 
as it was too late to go in, on account of Tide. Ends 
brisk and squally from the Southward. The ship 
Eddystone got a pilot, soon after us, and also stood 
off by the wind. At noon, the Light Ship bore 
about North, some two leagues distant by calcula- 
tion. So ends this passage of 103 days. All well 
on board. 



INDIA 

The Ganges River 

The Ganges, well known as the sacred river of 
India, rises in the Himalayan mountains, and flows 
through a delta of many channels, into the Bay of 
Bengal. The Hoogli or Hugii as it is variously 
spelled, is the western and principal channel. On 
its banks stands Calcutta. The navigation of the 
Hugli is rendered perilous by numerous quicksands. 
A vessel, striking on one of these, is liable to upset 
and to be quickly submerged. Heavily loaded ships 
seldom attempt to go over them, except at high tide, 
which flows in from the Bay. Another danger is 
that the channels change from year to year. Ex- 
perienced pilots, however, are usually, on hand to 
assume the control. 

August 19th. Yesterday afternoon we came up 
the river as far as Sangor. Passed over the Gasper, 
one of its terrors. At the Gasper, there is a flash 
light of a beautiful blue color, and very brilliant. 
We anchored there and remained over night. 
Sangor, or Sangor Roads, as it is commonly called, 
is a low swampy island, much of it a jungle, yet it 
is said to be one of the holy places of the Hindus. 
In November and January, at the time of the full 
moon, it is visited by many pilgrims, who wish to 
bathe in the sacred water of the river. A fair 

89 



90 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

is also held, which the pilgrims attend after the 
ceremony of purification. There must be something 
attractive about Sangor, I suppose, for I have read 
that the places of pilgrimage in India, are chosen, 
because of some beauty or grandeur of nature, so 
that those who come, will be, while there, lifted 
above the narrowness and privation of their ordin- 
ary living. Perhaps its close proj^imity to the 
Ganges, is a sufficient attraction for Sangor. 

This morning we came as far as Kedgeree. A 
boat manned by natives, wearing very little cloth- 
ing, rowed alongside, with letters for the pilot. 
They talked so fast, in an unfamiliar tongue, that 
it sounded like the chattering of monkeys. This 
afternoon a country (or native) vessel, anchored 
near us. The pilot on board of her asked our 
steward for some bread and meat, since he had 
eaten nothing — not even a biscuit — since morning. 
The steward supplied him liberally, and he received 
it with enthusiasm. "The food on Native Ships," 
he said "was scanty, and of second-rate quality, as a 
rule." We are to wait here for steam to take us 
up, and shall have to remain until tomorrow. 

Mark Twain in his descriptions of the pilots 
on the Mississippi river, speaks of the absolute and 
unquestioned control which they exercised, when on 
duty; also of the prestige which this gave them; 
and of the high wages that they earned. All this 
applies with even greater force to the pilots on the 
Ganges, inasmuch as the latter is a most dangerous 
river to navigate. Those who attempt it must be 
men of ability, of accurate judgment, and of exper- 
ience in this line. Mr. Bond is an Englishman, 



India 9 1 

very well informed and an interesting talker. He 
has given us much information about English and 
Indian affairs. He has a home and family in Cal- 
cutta. 

August 20th. This morning a steamboat took 
us in tow. We passed through the Bankfullah 
channel about ten o'clock. A brig touched on a 
quicksand there night before last, and turned over. 
The tops of her masts were visible, when we first 
came near the place, but later, nothing could be 
seen, save floating bits of timber. We could learn 
nothing concerning the fate of those on board. 

At Diamond Harbor, a Custom House officer 
appeared on the scene. He, also, brought a ser- 
vant, and considerable baggage. There are now 
with us five men connected in some way with the 
English management of affairs in Calcutta. We 
have just passed over the "James and Mary," an- 
other specially dangerous place in the river, so now 
I suppose we may consider ourselves tolerably safe. 
M — . and I have spent much of the day watching 
the scenery along the banks. Native villages are 
to be seen here and there among' the trees. Mr. 
Bond has a very strong glass, and with it, we can 
easily distinguish the varieties of foliage. There 
are many palms, also cocoa-nut and tamarind trees. 
Large fields of rice — "paddy fields" — they are call- 
ed here, extend all along the shores, which are low 
and level, like those of the Mississippi. Small boats 
manned by natives, dark-skinned and with little 
clothing have been all day rowing up and down near 
us. The Sircar, whom the Captain has employed 



92 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

on previous trips, came on board, from one of them, 
bringing bananas and other fruits. 

August 2 1st. Anchored at "Budge-A-Budge," 
and the rain is coming down in torrents. The 
steamboat attempted to start us this morning but 
without success. The ship apparently does not de- 
sire to budge from "Budge-A-Budge." We shall 
have to wait and go up with the tide. Last evening 
Mr. Bond gave us an interesting account of his 
various adventures on the river. He takes his meals 
at our table, except when we chance to be passing 
over specially dangerous places. Then they are 
served on deck for him. The Custom House offi- 
cer, also has a seat with us. He is a gentleman in 
appearance and manner, and he speaks English well, 
though he has, evidently, a few drops of Indian 
blood in his veins. 

Later. We are going slowly up the river. Have 
passed several palaces, where the former King of 
Oude lives, with about two thousand followers. 
These palaces are his during his life, but do not 
descend to his posterity. He is permitted to drive 
about Calcutta and its immediate vicinity but can- 
not go elsewhere. Oude, Mr. Bond tell us, is 
a province of India, situated south of the Himalayan 
Mountains. It is said to be the seat of the oldest 
civilization in India. It is densely populated. The 
misrule of this province, by its native princes, 
brought about its annexation by the East India 
Company in 1856. During the Sepoy mutiny in 
1857, Oude was one of the centers of rebellion. Since 
then the people of India have been disarmed. In 



India 93 

1858 Queen Victoria issued a proclamation, an- 
nouncing the transfer of the Government of India, 
from the East India Company to the Crown. All 
important and lucrative positions are filled by Eng- 
lishmen. India, therefore is not really a British 
Colony. It is rather, as some one has said, "A De- 
pendency." 

August 2nd. Arrived at Garden Beach — a su- 
burb of Calcutta, late yesterday afternoon. We 
passed many small temples or shrines, with flights 
of steps leading down to the river. These are called 
Ghats — landing places. The Ganges — "Mother 
Ganga" the native Indians call it, I am told — occu- 
pies a large place in Hindu theology or mythology, 
which ever term one may choose. To bathe in it, 
cleanses from sin. To die in it, or on its banks, 
insures an immediate entrance into Paradise. The 
sick and the suffering, therefore, in all stages of 
disease are brought by friends and dipped in the 
sacred stream. This perhaps may partially account 
for the dead bodies that one sees floating by now and 
then. The Hindus believe that nothing can defile 
it. Hundreds of pilgrims come long distances to 
bathe in it and the water is carried to all parts of 
India for use in religious rites. The junctions of 
its various branches are considered especially sacred. 
Benares is the most Holy City. The shrines and 
ghats in that vicinity are far-famed. 

We are now nearly up to the city. Mr. Bond 
left us promising to call, when we are located in 
Calcutta. A package of home and business letters 



94 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

has been sent down to us, also several boarding 
house circulars. 

It is very pleasant about this landing. Fort 
William, the largest fortress in India, is not far 
from here. It is garrisoned by English and native 
soldiers. Along the river on the right bank are 
many fine houses, with extensive grounds. On the 
left bank, are the Botanical Gardens. The Har- 
bor Master is now here, taking the ship further up 
the river into moorings. 

August 23rd. Another Custom-House officer has 
come on board this morning. The unloading of 
our cargo of salt has begun. Najis the market man 
has been down for orders. He brought with him 
several varieties of roses, honeysuckle, and other 
flowers, the names of which I do not know. Dr. 
Ferris has also called. He is the physician, whom 
the Captain employs when in port. On account of 
the danger of sudden illness from fever or cholera, 
it is the custom of American Captains, to engage a 
physician by the month, or during the stay in port. 
A certain sum is agreed upon for payment, and it is 
the duty of the physician, to go on board the ship, 
each morning, and to treat any and every one, who 
may be in the least ailing. If no one is ill, so much 
the better for the doctor, as he gets his pay all the 
same. 

M — . and I expect to go on shore with the Cap- 
tain this afternoon, to select a boarding place. 

August 24th. We could not go on shore, yester- 
day on account of heavy rain. The rainy season is 



India 95 

not yet quite over here. This morning we were 
lowered down the side of the ship into a dinghy 
(row-boat). We soon reached the landing, where 
we took a gharree — closed carriage or hack, — and 
drove to various boarding houses. We decided up- 
on rooms at Mrs. Herring's. She is an English 
woman. Her home was formerly in Liverpool, but 
she has lived in India twenty-three years. She has 
two houses : one fronting on Chondringee Road ; 
the other on Russel Street. We are to have three 
rooms. A very large one, with a wide covered 
veranda, running its whole length, is to be our 
living room. Two sleeping rooms connect with 
this, one for the Captain, the other for M — . and 
myself. Mrs. Herring conducts her house on the 
English plan. She has no public table. Meals 
are served to her "guests" as she calls them, in their 
several apartments. Our long room will be very 
suitable for such an arrangement. It can be divided 
if we choose, into two distinct parts. In the part 
we shall use as living-room, or parlor, is a round 
centre table, two marble topped side tables, two 
"what-nots," two sofas or lounges, various chairs, 
large and small, and several vases. In the other 
part is a small dining table, a few suitable chairs, 
two portable closets, in which dishes or fruit may be 
kept, two side tables, which will do very well for 
sideboards, and a light-stand from which tea and 
coffee may be served. We are supposed to furnish 
the servants who wait especially upon us. 

We went back to the ship, ordered our trunks 
and other belongings sent to the rooms, and now, 
in the late afternoon, we have taken possession of 



96 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

them. They were already lighted, when we arrived 
— I cannot say brillantly, considering the number 
of lamps. There are four large ones suspended 
from the ceiling ; two table lamps — what we should 
call solar lamps, at home, and two hand lamps. 
The hanging lamps look like large open bowls. 
They are filled with cocoa-nut oil, in which small 
wicks float loosely and burn dimly. 

The use of gas for lighting is not yet, very gen- 
eral in Calcutta, we are told. When it was first 
introduced on the streets, the city barely escaped a 
general riot. In digging the trenches for the pipes, 
many natives were employed, not knowing, nor even 
suspecting for what purpose they were to be used. 
When at last the work was completed, and suddenly 
one night, light after light flashed forth into the 
darkness, without — to them — any visible agency, 
they supposed — not unnaturally — that the Inglese 
(English) had invented a scheme to burn the whole 
city by means of subterranean fires. 

Calcutta — A Glance at Its History and Its 
Customs 

August 25th. We slept well through the night, 
the rooms are large and the ceiling high. All the 
windows were open and it was quite cool, the mos- 
quitos could not get at us, because our beds are en- 
closed in nettings, held above and around us, by 
frames made for the purpose. When we were 
ready for breakfast, we found that Sam?nOj our na- 
tive servant, whom the Captain had engaged to 
serve us at meals, was missing. Just at that junc- 



India 97 

ture Nayis came to bring flowers for our rooms. 
He at once offered to send some one, and in an 
incredibly brief time a man appeared. He imme- 
diately hunted up the house servants, and our 
breakfast was served in Anglo-Indian style after 
all. 

During the morning, Mrs. Herring called upon 
us. She said that it was not unusual for native 
servants to leave without giving notice. She told 
us that we should need a kit mud gas to serve us at 
table, a C hearer to look after our rooms, and a 
punkah wala to keep the air fresh and stirring. 
She offered to procure them for us, so we left the 
matter with her. It sounds extravagant to board, 
and yet to pay three servants in addition. It is 
however less so than it seems, since the wages of the 
three will be less than we should pay one servant 
at home. The Caste system is really the primary 
cause of this multiplicity of servants. The kit- 
mudgas would lose caste if he did the Chearers 
work, and both would lose caste if they did the 
punkah wala's. 

About noon, various natives began to appear — 
dhobees and pinmen — that is laundrey men and 
clear-starchers, seeking a job; also chicken walas — 
native merchants, with goods to sell, — laces, em- 
broideries, handkerchiefs and mantillas. 

In the late afternoon, we called on Captain and 
Mrs. C — n., friends of ours. They have rooms in 
Mrs. Herring's other house. Although the two 
houses front on different streets, we can go from 
one to the other, through a yard, partially enclosed, 
called here a Compound. A native servant, dir- 



98 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

wan, sits there through the day to take and send 
up the cards of callers or visitors ; also to give any 
needed directions. We found that Mrs. C — n. had 
been ill with a slight fever, though she is now much 
better. 

August 26. Our new servants are here and seem 
to be working well. It appears odd to have a man 
doing the work of a chamber-maid, but such is the 
custom in Calcutta. The native women do not 
serve the English or American residents in any ca- 
pacity except as Ayahs — nurses for young children, 
and as ladies maids. Our kitmudgas can speak a 
little — a very little — English, but even that is much 
better than none. He calls the Captain Sahib — 
that is, a gentleman of Europe or America, and he 
speaks impartially of M — . and myself as Mem 
Sahib. 

This morning we attended a service in the new 
Cathedral, — St. Paul's — situated on the lower end 
of Chowringhee road. In the afternoon we went 
for a drive, stopping on the way at the English 
cemetery. We looked for, and found — the grave of 
Mrs. G — m, whom we had known in life. She ac- 
companied her husband on a voyage, and while in 
port here, died of cholera. A few plants were grow- 
ing about her grave. The cemetery itself seemed 
quiet and pleasant. There were many trees espec- 
ially weeping willows, and many beds of flowers 
scattered here and there. 

While driving we passed the site of the "Black 
Hole" of Calcutta. The attention of every newcom- 
er is called to this site. On the night of June 20th, 



India 99 

1756, an attack was made upon the garrison of the 
English settlement, by a Nawub — native viceroy of 
Bengal. The men of the garrsion, one hundred and 
forty-six in number, were driven "at the point of 
the sword," into an unventilated guard room about 
twenty feet square. When morning came, only 
twenty-three were living. The others had died from 
suffocation. 

August 27th. Called on Mrs. C — n, this morn- 
ing and spent some time looking at the embroideries 
and other foreign fabrics she has purchased. Later 
our rooms were filled with chicken walas, box wai- 
ns and others. If you are either English or Ameri- 
can, the native merchants do not wait for you to 
come to them; they bring their goods to you. At 
one time, there were a dozen of them here. Who 
could decide what to buy, with such a superfluity of 
riches spread out before one? 

In the afternoon, the Captain drove with us to 
Coolie Bazar and then through Fort William. This 
fort is said to be sufficiently large to contain the 
whole European population of the city, in case of 
an insurrection. There are no buildings near the 
outer wall. A large space is kept vacant, so that the 
troops of an enemy may be easily seen before they 
reach the wall. The inner wall is surrounded by a 
deep moat. Large squads of soldiers were walking 
back and forth. Some were armed ; others were 
not. Children were playing on the grass; a young 
couple were walking arm in arm after the manner 
of lovers. Cannons were pointing in every direction, 
and stacks of cannon balls of varying sizes, were 



lOO A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

scattered about the grounds. There are two churches 
within the walls. 

From there we drove to Eden Gardens. The 
grounds are adorned with fine tropical trees and 
beautiful flora. Men and women in gala attire were 
walking about. The Military Band was sending 
forth inspiring music. It was a festive scene. When 
I first heard of Eden Gardens, I supposed that some 
one, specially imbued with sentiment, casting about 
for a name that would do justice to the beauty of the 
place, could think of nothing quite so romantic as 
this — Eden Garden or "Garden of Eden." Here, 
however, this appellation is said to have a more sub- 
stantial and worldly origin. The name was given 
in honor of George Eden, who was appointed Gov- 
ernor General in 1835, remaining until 1841. Dur- 
ing that time, he was made Earl of Auckland, be- 
cause of the part he took in a successful Afghan ex- 
pedition. 

August 28. Our native servants are proving sat- 
isfactory. The Kitmudgar and the Cheareo come 
each morning and attend to their respective duties. 
When these are done, both go away for their break- 
fast. They have but two meals a day, one in the 
morning, and the other in the late afternoon, before 
our dinner hour. When and where the punkah- 
wala gets his is a mystery. He seems to be always 
here, ready for work whenever we want him. He 
sits on the veranda, and pulls the punkah by a cord 
which passes through the wall of the living room. 
At night he also sits or lies there, ready for work 
if it is desired. To procure the food for our meals, 



India ioi 

the Kitmudgar makes many trips back and forth 
across the compound to some place in the rear, 
where the cooking is done. He does not systematize 
his work, and consequently has to make more trips 
than would seem needful. I frequently see him, 
bringing perhaps one small dish of something, or it 
may be two boiled eggs, one in each hand. He is 
very leisurely in his movements. Time is not es- 
pecially valuable to him, I suppose, since he has to 
stay here the larger part of the day whether there is 
anything for him to do or not. After our meals, he 
carefully scrapes up all the salt that may be left over, 
to take away with him. A little salt the natives 
must have, to flavor the rice, which is their staple 
article of food. England consequently puts a heavy 
duty on salt, thereby deriving from it a large reve- 
nue. 

Another seance with the chicken-walas this morn- 
ing; not so many here at one time as yesterday, and 
we found it easier to decide upon what to buy. 
There is to be a party at one of the boarding houses, 
this evening. We are invited. I hope the Captain 
will allow us to go. 

This afternoon Mr. and Mrs. F — r, both of Bos- 
ton ancestry, called. Mr. F — r. is a member of the 
firm of S — n and F — r, and to them the cargo 
brought over in the National Eagle is consigned. 
Mrs. F — r has been in Calcutta only six weeks. She 
came out to be married, as Mr. F — r. found it dif- 
ficult to leave his business for so long a trip. She 
would have taken passage with us, had the ship 
come directly here from Boston. Although we had 
never met either of them before, we found many top- 



I02 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

! 
ics of mutual interest. After they left we went with 
the Captain for a drive along the Esplanade — Mai- 
dan it is called here. It is a fine broad roadway ex- 
tending along the bank of the river, passing the fort, 
the parade-ground, and the gardens. We found it 
crowded with carriages — open vehicles being most 
in evidence. Many men — army officers, Govern- 
ment officials, and others were on horseback. These 
upon seeing a friend or acquaintance in a carriage, 
would rein in their horses, and canter along beside 
it, for a greeting, or even a brief conversation. This 
moving array, with the native drivers and footmen 
all in Eastern garb, made a brilliant and fascinating 
spectacle. 

August 29. We went to the party last even- 
ing. Most of the American Captains now in poit 
were there. Three had their wives with them. 
Several Englishmen were also present. I talked 
with one of them about Tennyson and his 
poems, of which we were both admirers. Another 
had travelled extensively in India. He had rooms 
in the house, where we were, so he brought down 
some of the purchases he had made, for our in- 
spection. Among them were beautiful crape 
mantles, rich cashmere shawls, carved statuettes, 
ornaments of ivory and ebony. There were a few 
dances, a little music, and much conversation. For 
a treat we had cake and confectionery, wine and 
lemonade. We have made, I think, some pleasant 
acquaintances. 

August 30th. Spent the day with Mrs. F — s. 



India 103 

She sent her carriage for us about eleven o'clock. 
We talked about Boston, and compared notes of 
our respective sea-trips to India. One other lady 
vv^as there for tiffin (luncheon). In the late af- 
ternoon we went with Mrs. F — s. for another 
drive along the Esplanade. It was crowded, as 
usual, with a moving throng of carriages filled with 
gaily dressed people. The heat in Calcutta is so 
enerva'ting, that the English and American resi- 
dents go out of doors very little in the middle of 
the day, except during the brief period of Winter. 
The usual time for driving is in the early morning 
or the late afternoon, especially the latter. 

At dinner we were joined by Mr. F — s., the Cap- 
tain, and two other gentlemen, one an English- 
man, the other an American. The dinners here 
are quite spectacular. Seven o'clock is the usual 
hour for this function. Behind the chairs of host 
and hostess, and of each guest, stands a native ser- 
vant, clad in the costume of his caste — a sort of 
gored robe of white material, belted in at the waist 
with a girdle of some color, usually blue or red. 
On his head he wears a turban, which may be white, 
or it may be the color of the girdle that he is wear- 
ing at the time. On his feet are sandals, in which 
he glides easily and noiselessly about. These wait- 
ers all belong to a certain caste. They are usually 
fine looking men, tall, well-formed, with regular 
features, and clear, light-tinted olive complexions. 

August 31st. The last day of summer I hoped 
that we should be in Calcutta, and here we are, al- 



104 ^ Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

ready becoming somewhat familiar with its history, 
its sights, its customs, and its social life. 

Calcutta, I am told, was founded by a Governor 
Charnock, upon the removal hither of the factories 
of the East India Company in 1686. The name 
seems to have been a combination of two Hindu 
words, ghat — a landing place and Kali, the name of 
a goddess; — Kali-ghata — a landing place leading to 
the temple of the goddess Kali. This, as time went 
on, was anglicized into Calcutta. 

For a period of about twenty years, it seems to 
have been little more than a "cluster of mud vil- 
lages," dependent upon the older settlement at Mad- 
ras. In the year 1707, it was made the seat of a 
Presidency and began to acquire some importance as 
a town. In 1756 an attack was made upon it by a 
Naiuab — native viceroy — of Bengal. The garrison 
was compelled to yield, and the disaster of the 
"Black Hole" was one result of the siege. Calcutta 
remained in the hands of the Nawabj — Surdj-ud- 
Dozulahj or Dauld, as it is variously spelled, for 
seven or eight months, and during that time much 
damage was done to property. The homes of many 
English residents were destroyed, and the old church 
of St. John was almost in ruins. Near the close of 
that year or early in the following year, an expedition 
was sent from Madras, under the command of Ad- 
miral Watson and Colonel Cline, They succeeded in 
regaining possession of the place, and making peace 
with the Nazuab. A new fort, the beginning of the 
present Fort William, was soon started by Cline, 
and a maidan (park) was also projected. It was 
years, or course, before either of them began to at- 



India 105 

tain their present proportions, but the origin of 
"modern Calcutta," may be said to date from about 
that time. Warren Hastings was the first Gover- 
nor General of British India. He had the Treasury 
removed to Calcutta, which then became the capital, 
and the seat of "Supreme Government" of Bengal. 

Calcutta is frequently termed "A City of Pal- 
aces." Only two others, I think are so designated, 
Rome — ("Agrippa converted a city of brick huts in- 
to one of marble palaces,") and St. Petersburg, 
so called from its many Imperial and Government 
buildings. This applies as well to Calcutta. The 
Government buildings are large and imposing. Gov- 
ernment House, where the Governor General re- 
sides, is a fine structure facing the Esplanade. It 
was erected by the Marquis of Wellesley during his 
term of office from 1797 to 1805. The private res- 
idences are also large and many of them ornate. 
A few palatial houses, surrounded by spacious 
grounds, belonging to wealthy natives, are to be 
seen, and there are monuments and museums, cathe- 
drals and mosques, Hindu temples and pagodas. 
The moving throngs in the streets are interesting, 
even fascinating, composed as they are of many 
races, each wearing its distinctive garb. The trop- 
ical vegetation is another attraction lending to the 
whole, picturesqueness and charm. 

This morning we spent an hour or more with 
Mrs. C — n. This afternoon we went down to the 
ship to pack away some of our purchases. All on 
board seemed very glad to see us. A heavy shower 
came up about the time we were to leave, so we 
remained for supper. Mr. B — . and Mr. W — ., 



lo6 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

the first and second mates were at the table with 
us. The steward added a special dish to the menu 
— broiled bananas — for which I have a "liking." 

September ist. Feeling the need of a quiet day, 
we have remained in our rooms except for a drive 
this afternoon. An abundance of beautiful flow- 
ers were sent to us this morning; some of them 
familiar, others, quite new and peculiar. We have 
done a little sewing, traded with the box-iuala?, 
and written letters. Captain and Mrs. C — n. spent 
the evening with us, also Captain S — s., Mr. L— ee. 
and Mr. C — n. It seems scarcely possible that here 
in far-away India, we can be entertaining so many 
neighbors and friends. Yet thus it is! Captain 
and Mrs. C — n., when at home, live in the next 
town to us, scarcely three miles away. Mr. L — ee. 
is a Boston man, born on Mt. Vernon Street, in 
close proximity to the venerated State House. Cap- 
tain S — s. is an old friend of our Captain, and 
comes from a neighboring town. He is commander 
of the Ship Cromwell. It was with him that Mrs. 
F — s. came out for her marriage. Thus out of eight 
here assembled, seven are from eastern Massachu- 
setts. Mr. C — n. is an Englishman in business 
here. 

September 2nd. This morning we attended ser- 
vice in the old Cathedral of St. John. Reginald 
Heber, the author of many hymns, was appointed 
Bishop of Calcutta in 1823. He doubtless conduct- 
ed many services in this building. 



India 107 

"From Greenland's icy mountains 
From India's coral strand," 

may have been written about this tin^?. It is said 
of him, that he was very zealous in endeavoring to 
implant and spread the tenets of his religious belief. 
The whole hymn, indeed, suggests much missionary 
zeal. 

"From many an ancient river, 

From many a palmy plain. 
They call us to deliver 

Their land from error's chain." 

Another hymn of his is suggestive of some experi- 
ence on the Ocean, — perhaps during the long voy- 
age to, or from, India. The sailing vessels of that 
time must have been small and poorly equipped, 
when compared with those of the present. The first 
stanza runs thus: 

"When through the torn sail, the wild tempest is 
streaming, 

When o'er the dark wave, the red lightning is gleam- 
ing, 

Nor hope lends a ray, the poor seaman to cherish, 

We fly to our Maker : 'Help Lord or we perish.' " 

We have had callers as usual both in the after- 
noon and evening. In the intervals between, I have 
read "Adam Bede." 

September 3rd. Spent most of the day with Mrs. 



lo8 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

L — n. Mr. L — n. is an Englishman, and is the 
senior member of the firm to which the cargo of the 
National Eagle is consigned. They have two daugh- 
ters, who are about the age of M — . and myself. 
They have but just returned from England, where 
they were sent to be educated. Mrs. F — r. came to 
tiffin. In the late afternoon, we all went for a 
drive, and on the return, we were landed at our 
apartment. We spent the evening with Captain 
and Mrs. C — n. Several other Captains were there. 

September 4th. This morning we went with Mr. 
and Mrs. G — d. to a museum, not far from here, 
on Park street I think. There we saw stuffed ani- 
mals of many kinds, including beautiful birds, and 
hideous reptiles. There were also minerals, and a 
collection of curios from other countries. A very 
courteous and intelligent baboo, who speaks English 
well, showed us about. He wore ^ sort of semi- 
fitted, gored robe of tussor silk. He assured us that 
we would be most welcome, whenever we chose to 
come. 

In the afternoon the Captain went with us 
through China Bazar. Such a dense and thronging 
population, I never saw, nor even dreamed of be- 
fore. Many were very scantily clad. They ran 
along close to our carriage, sometimes on one side, 
sometimes on the other, often there were runners on 
both at once, telling us what wonderful bargains 
we could find in their shops. They urged us to 
come in and inspect them, and then immediately 
offered to bring any thing and everything they had, 
out to the carriage, if we would like that better. 



India 109 

Many children were running about — the smaller 
ones, just as nature made them, looking like little 
ebony statues endowed with life. There is a strik- 
ing contrast between the native quarter of the city 
and the English section. The streets in the native 
part are narrow and many of them unpaved. The 
houses are mere huts, made of mud, bamboo, or 
mats, and crowded closely together. 

September 5th. Remained quietly in our rooms 
this morning. One has to be a "bit lazy," now and 
then in this warm moist atmosphere. A party of 
us, eight in number, drove in the afternoon to Mul- 
lock's — a house — palace perhaps it should be called 
— owned by a wealthy Baboo. It appears to be one 
of the "show places" of the city. It is elaborately 
furnished, though with more splendor than taste. 
This is said to be true of most native palaces. The 
furniture was covered with brown linen, but the 
servants considerately turned the coverings back, 
so that we could see what was beneath. It was 
mostly of satin or brocade, in various colors, and 
much of it was figured or embossed. The walls 
were covered with pictures. Some were of histori- 
cal subjects. Others represented Shakespearean 
scenes and characters. Most of them, however, 
v/ere portraits of women, either real or ideal. None 
of them were especially beautiful, according to our 
standards. There were also many vases, statuettes, 
and ornaments, large and small, and of various 
materials. The house was surrounded by extensive 
grounds, and there we saw many of the living ani- 



no A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

mals and birds, that we had seen as stuffed speci- 
mens at the Museum. 

September 6th. M — . and I made several calls 
this morning. We dined with Mr. and Mrs. C — r. 
Mr. C — r. who is an American, is in the ice business 
here. Nearly all the ice used in Calcutta comes 
from the lakes and streams of New England. It is 
sent out from Boston, by the Tudor Ice Company. 
Had the National Eagle come directly here from 
Boston, her cargo would have consisted of ice, in- 
stead of salt. India has lofty snow-capped moun- 
tain ranges, — the eternal snow of the Himalayas — 
amid which ice is doubtless formed in abundance, 
but there is at present no way of bringing it down 
or even of getting at it, and the process of manu- 
facturing it has not yet reached this country. Once, 
when the Captain came out with a cargo of it, he 
was met far down the river, by an agent of the 
company, asking him to make all possible speed up- 
consistent with safety — for there was scarcely a 
pound of ice left in the city, and the English resi- 
dents were in despair. 

Mrs. C — r. is of French ancestry and is very 
charming. She has a brother and sister living with 
her, both young. There were eight other guests, 
beside ourselves, making fifteen in all at the table. 
These dinner parties in Calcutta are really brilliant 
pageants. The gentlemen are all in evening dress; 
the ladies in white or in delicately tinted diaphanous 
material, as muslin, pina-cloth, or soft, light silks. 
The waiters, in their picturesque costume, flit noise- 
lessly about, or, when there is no service to be ren- 
dered, stand like statues behind the guests. 



India 111 

Notwithstanding the hot climate, the dinners are 
substantial and elaborate almost to an extreme. This 
is the usual menu — soup, fish, a roast, with many 
vegetables, then the never omitted dish, of highly 
spiced and flavored rice and curry, then dessert and 
coffee. Several wine-glasses of varying sizes, are 
placed near the plate of each guest, as wine and even 
stronger liquors, are freely used throughout the 
meal. A wonderful centerpiece of fruit and flowers 
adorns the table. Sometimes large melons are cut 
into fantastic shapes, castles and fortresses; at an- 
other time, the fruit and flowers will be so arranged 
as to represent a garden or orchard. This fruit is 
never offered to guests, and is apparently never eat- 
en, unless the servants feast upon it later. It is sur- 
prising that so little fruit is used at meals. English 
residents claim that it is not safe to eat much of it 
in this climate. 

Captain S — s. took me back to our rooms in his 
light open buggy. It was ideal — driving through 
the streets, in an atmosphere so soft and warm, that 
one needed neither wrap nor head covering. 

September 8th. Calcutta seems to be luxurious 
and modern in every way, except in its arrangements 
for a water supply. In various sections of the city, 
immense tanks have been built in which rain-water 
is caught and stored. The method of its distribu- 
tion takes one back to the far past — even to Bible 
times. It is carried about the streets, and taken to 
the homes of English and American residents in 
large leathern bags, by native water-carriers, termed 
bahisties. 



112 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

Captain and Mrs. C — n. left Calcutta this morn- 
ing. Captain S — s. went down to Garden Beach 
with them. We might have gone also. How stupid 
of me not to think of it. A pleasant drive this after- 
noon, along the Esplanade. A whirl of color and 
motion, as usual. 

September 9th. The rain is coming down in tor- 
rents — a tropical rain. It reminds me of a Sunday 
we spent in New Orleans. Captain C — n's ship, 
the "Isaac Jeans" was reported at Diamond Harbor 
this afternoon, so they are safely over the "James 
and Mary," one of the danger-points on the river. 
Just before dark, Captain K — s. sent with his card 
and compliments, two loaves of rich pound cake, 
made by the steward of his ship. Neither M — . nor 
I had ever met Captain K — s. before coming here, 
yet his home is in a town not many miles from our 
own and we have many mutual acquaintances. 

September loth. M — . and I can scarcely keep 
our attire in order, we go to so many dinners and 
other entertainments. It is too warm for anything 
but thin material. Fortunately laundry work is 
comparatively inexpensive here, and everything is 
beautifully done. The Captain looks surprisingly 
young, as he starts out each morning in a freshly 
laundered white suit, without a wrinkle or a crease. 
All the other Captains, and most of the men we 
meet, wear similar costumes, until they put on 
dress suits for dinner. We, of the so-called, Vi^eaker 
sex, cannot afford to let them out-do us in what is 
supposed to be our special province. M — . and I, 



India 113 

therefore are making more thin gowns of muslin and 
pinacloth. Our Kitmudgar seems quite concerned, 
when he sees us doing anything, except fancy work 
— so called — such as crocheting or embroidering. 

"Wantee tailor?" he asks, "Wantee tailor?" "I 
get you one." When we reply in the negative, he 
says — "No tailor, no tailor," with an emphasis on 
the no, as though the strange ways of American 
women were quite beyond his comprehension. Oc- 
casionally, when we want the veranda curtains low- 
ered or drawn up, we do it ourselves. It is so easy 
to do it — easier than to call him. But if he sees us 
doing it, he rushes toward us, with surprising celer- 
ity for a native, and protests vigorously. He appar- 
ently thinks we are demeaning ourselves by such a 
menial act. I wonder what he, and others like him, 
would think, could they be transported to England 
or the United States, and see what the women, who 
lead such indolent lives here, undertake and accom.- 
plish there. 

India — Its Caste Distinctions and Theolog- 
ical System 

September iith. Mrs. Herring, our landlady, 
has two daughters. Minnie — the elder — spent an 
hour or more in our rooms this morning. They 
have lived in Calcutta many years and can therefore 
give us information on a variety of matters, which 
might otherwise escape our notice. Their point of 
view is thoroughly English yet we find them most 
interesting. 

We were intending to do a little sewing today 



114 ^ ^^^ Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

but several ladies have called, one after another. 
Then a note, chit it is called here, came from Mrs. 
F — s. saying that she would take us for the even- 
ing drive. All such invitations and messages are 
written and sent by native servants, who usually 
wait to receive and take back a written answer. 
We were obliged to decline, because of a previous 
engagement. We were invited to take afternoon 
tea, with Mrs. Dr. F — s. There were other guests 
and we had a very pleasant social time. 

September 12th. The Captain went down to the 
ship this morning to see how things were going on 
there, and M — . was out driving with Captain 
S — s. I was alone for a brief period and it gave 
me an opportunity to take a few needed stitches. 
Later a note and a fresh supply of cake was sent by 
Captain K — s. In the evening we went to a recep- 
tion given by Mr. and Mrs. C — rs. Many persons 
there whom we had not met before. M — . and I 
danced quadrilles, though we are not very proficient 
in that special line. We had a delightful evening, 
nevertheless. 

September 13th. This morning Mrs. S — n. came 
with her daughters to take us to the Martiniere 
School. Anniversary exercises were held there in 
honor of its founder, Claude Martin, who estab- 
lished it, for the education of half-caste children. 
There was an address by the Reverend Mr. Kurd- 
man of the Scotch Kirk. This was followed by 
another short address, by singing and the giving 
of prizes — two gold medals, one for the boys and 
one for the girls. Children are admitted to the 



India 115 

school when seven years old and may remain until 
they are seventen. Most of the girls wore the 
simple dress provided by the school. It is 
a gown of white material with ruffles of 
the same at neck and wrists. After the exercises 
were over, we all went to the dining room, where 
the pupils were seated, and each was given a glass 
of wine with which to drink the health of the Foun- 
der. 

Mrs. S — n. took us to her home for tiffin, and 
we remained for the evening drive. On return to 
our rooms we found a note from Mrs. C — n., writ- 
ten while they were going down the river. 

September 15th. We were planning a trip to 
"The Seven Tanks" yesterday but on learning that 
it was a "Native Holiday" we postponed it until 
this afternoon. Upon arrival there we found that 
the interior was being painted so that we could only 
see a part of it. The grounds are very extensive. 
The House is situated in the centre and ranged about 
it, though at a considerable distance, are the Seven 
Tanks. These are used for storage of water, for 
aquatic plants, and for rare specimens of fish. Some 
of the fishes were so tame that they would eat from 
our hands. The animals also were interesting in 
their way, especially an ourang-outang and a rhinoc- 
eros. This place is similar to the other that we vis- 
ited, and it is also owned by a wealthy baboo. A 
rumor is current that both belong to Mulloch. 

I wish that I might in some way come into more 
friendly relations with these natives whom we meet. 
They are so uniformly gentle and courteous from the 



Il6 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

baboos down to the humblest house servant, yet they 
get rather cavalier treatment, both from English 
and American residents. I would like to know 
what they think of our coming into their country 
and monopolizing the best of everything. I wish 
also that I could learn more about the caste system, 
and something of their religious belief. 

I have read, that far back in the past, there was 
only a natural division into classes, as priests, sol- 
diers, those engaged in trade, or agriculture, and — 
slaves. It would seem therefore that Caste distinc- 
tions, in the beginning were scarcely more rigorous 
than are the class distinctions observed at present in 
England and in our own country. As time went on 
however, largely through the influence of the priests, 
religious and social distinctions, became so definitely 
defined, that the result was what is now known, as 
the Caste system. This, at present, seems to be en- 
tirely a matter of birth. Neither mental ability, ed- 
ucation nor wealth, will enable a person of low caste 
to rise to one higher. Members of different castes 
may not marry, nor live, nor eat together. Indeed 
it is said, that one of low caste may not cook, nor 
even allow his shadow to fall upon the food intended 
for those of higher castes. How can there be any 
patriotism, any real love for, or devotion to one's 
country, when the classes are so widely separated? 

The religion of the Hindus is said to be a blend- 
ing of Brahmanism and Buddhism. In the teaching 
of the former, Brahma is the Supreme Creator of all 
things — the self -existent one. Vishnu and Siva are 
the other two of the Triad. Vishnu, the preserver, 
and Siva, the destroyer, are the ones who have the 



India 1 1 7 

closest relations with mankind. The Vedas are the 
sacred books. They are four in number. The Rig- 
Veda is supposed to be the oldest, and is the one 
most in use. It consists largely of hymns and lyrics, 
addressed to the "Gods of the Vedic Pantheon." 
Krishna is the "leading incarnation of Vishnu." 

Buddhism, it is said, started twenty-five centur- 
ies ago, as a reaction against the sacrifices of Brah- 
manism. Gautama, its founder, was born in the 
sixth century before the Christian Era. His home 
was in the region of India northeast of Benares. 
He came from the ruling class. It has been said 
that he was a "prince of royal blood," but this 
statement has not been verified. The name Gau- 
tama was not an unusual one in that locality. For 
some years he wandered up and down in the vicin- 
ity of the Ganges River, spending his time in 
thought and meditation. His gentle manners and 
the earnestness of his teaching won many converts 
to his simple creed. He also founded some monastic 
orders. The designation "Buddha" which was later 
applied to him, means in Sanscrit — "The Wise" ; 
"The Enlightened One." 

Out of Buddhism comes the gentleness and kind- 
ness, shown by men and women, not only to each 
other, but to all animals as well. Buddha's theory 
was, that life is a long endeavor to escape from suf- 
fering, and therefore to cause suffering is the un- 
pardonable sin. Another reason for the extreme 
consideration shown to animals may be due to the 
fact, that Buddhism accepts the doctrine of the 
"Transmigration of Souls." Whoever fails to meet 
the demands of his religious code here, may have to 



Ii8 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

pass through various stages of life — even animal 
life, before reaching Nirvana where re-birth ends at 
last. 

There seem to be many points of resemblance 
between Buddhism and Christianity. The Buddha 
Trinity, is Buddha, Love and Church. I am told 
that there are Ten Commandments not unlike those 
of the Christian Church. They are— "Do not take 
life. Do not steal. Do not commit adultery. Do 
not lie. Do not drink. Do not slander priests and 
nuns. Do not praise self. Do not be stingy. Do 
not get angry." The tenth and last is, "Do not 
abuse the three precious ones, Buddha, the Love, 
the Church." Many parables are similar to those 
in the New Testament, and it is recorded that "he 
healed the sick, and gave sight to the blind." 

So far as one can judge from their writings, 
Buddha is not so much a Godj as he is the Ideal 
of what any man may become. Emphasis is put up- 
on character rather than upon creed. 

September 17th. A little time for sewing this 
morning. In the afternoon we drove to Garden 
Beach. On our return found another supply of 
cake — rich pound cake — from Captain K — s. The 
steward of our ship, also sent us two loaves, so we 
have a supply; and as we always keep on hand, an 
abundance of such fruit as we are allowed to eat — 
chiefly custard apples, guavas and bananas, we us- 
ually have something with which to treat our friends 
when they come in. It adds a little to the home- 
like aspect and feeling. It all came in most con- 
veniently this evening, since we had several callers. 



India iig 

Sept. 1 8th. Received, this morning, a package 
of books from Mr. C — n.- — -books which he has men- 
tioned, and which I wish to read. Several ladies 
called, among them Mrs. W — . and Mrs. C — . 
Louise S — n. spent an hour or more here. She is 
teaching me to crochet a very pretty imitation of 
point lace, to be used for trimming. In the late 
afternoon, the usual drive. Captain K — s. and Mr. 
C — n. spent the evening with us. A specially merry 
time. 

September 2ist. Yesterday and today, M — . and 
I have been returning the calls of various feminine 
acquaintances. We found Mrs. G — n. and Mrs. 
W — . very lively and agreeable. Mrs. C — . and 
her sister are both ill with slight attacks of fever. 
Captain C. appeared quite disheartened with two 
invalids on his hands. Called on Mrs. C — s. and 
later went with her for a drive. 

September 22nd. Dined with the S — ns. Several 
guests there, whom we had not met before. The ta- 
ble decorations were most elaborate. Many courses, 
many waiters and much ceremony. A brilliant 
scene! Music, conversation, and later games of 
bagatelle. 

Sept. 23rd. Delightful weather. It is warmer 
than our summer at home, yet it has that peculiar 
blending of light and shade, so noticeable with us in 
early autumn. We went again to a service in the 
new Cathedral — St. Paul's. 

India, though apparently devoted to her special 
religious system, in its various forms, seems yet to 



I20 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

be tolerant toward other religions, provided they do 
not interfere with the Caste distinctions. There are 
many Mohammedans in Calcutta. They also, are 
most faithful to the tenets and ceremonies of their 
religion. Wherever any one of them may be, when 
the noon hour strikes, he turns at once toward Mec- 
ca, and with bowed head and folded hands, mur- 
murs the prayers prescribed for that time. If it be 
possible, he produces a prayer-rug, and kneeling 
thereon, prostrates himself before Allah to continue 
his devotions, quite unconscious, apparently, of those 
about him. Similar religious rites are observed at 
sunrise and sunset. One can but respect and admire 
such zeal and fidelity, unshaken by stress of labor, 
undisturbed by the questioning gaze of those who 
pass by. 

There are also in this city, a few Parsees or Par- 
sis, which ever may be the accepted spelling. They 
are descendants of the early Persians, who were 
a dominant power from somewhere about 550 B. C. 
to the period of the Mohammedan conquest. Those, 
who refused to abandon their own faith and accept 
the religion of their conquerors, were obliged to 
leave the country. Many of them took refuge in 
Hindustan. There is now a large colony of them 
in Bombay, and they are, I am told, a most desir- 
able class of citizens. They are intelligent, indus- 
trious and law-abiding. Many of them are in 
business, where they have acquired large fortunes. 
Most of them are well-educated, holding advanced 
views as to theology, and also in regard to the edu- 
cation of women. The name Parsi is derived from 
Pari, a former name of Persia. 



India 1 2 1 

The sacred writings of the ancient Persians are 
found in the Avesta, or Zend Avesta^ as it is some- 
times termed. This is supposed to be the work o\ 
Zoroaster. He is considered to be the founder oi 
their religious system, or, as some one has said, 
"He may be more truly described, as the reformer 
of preceding systems." 

Zoroaster taught the existence of One Supreme 
Being; and the Parsees claim that they were the 
first of all peoples to do so. This Supreme Being, 
however, created two other beings, Ormudz and 
Ahriman, imparting to them, much of his own na- 
ture. Ormudz remained faithful to his creator, 
and was regarded as the source of all good. Ahri- 
man rebelled, and became the author of evil upon 
the earth. In consequence of this, good and evil, 
are everywhere mingled. But this state is not to 
last forever. A time will come, when the adher- 
ents of Ormudz will be victorious, while Ahriman 
and his followers "will be consigned to darkness 
forever." All this has a familiar sound. The idea 
of a Trinity of Gods seems to be the foundation of 
most religious systems. The final separation of the 
good and the bad, with the rewarding of the form- 
er, and the punishment of the latter appears to be 
also a fundamental doctrine. It is said, indeed, that 
Zoroastrianism, when compared with other relig- 
ions, is found to resemble most closely Judaism and 
Christianity. 

The early Persians had priests called Magi, who 
were learned in astrology, and incantation. The 
origin of our word magician may probably be 
traced to these priests. Most of their religious rites 



122 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

were, however, very simple. They did not use 
temples nor altars, but offered their sacrifices on 
hills and mountains. They regarded the sun, fire, 
and light, as emblems of Ormuzd, but not as inde- 
pendent deities. The manner of their religious ob- 
servances has evidently made a strong appeal to the 
poets. Wordsworth in the "Excursion" book, 
fourth, mentions: 

"The Persian zealous to reject, 

Altar and Image, and the inclusive walls 

And roofs of temples, built by human hands." 

In Childe Harold, Byron writes: 

"Not vainly did the early Persian make 
His altar, the high places, and the peak 
Of earth o'er-gazing mountains, and thus take, 
A fit and unwalled temple, there to seek 
The Spirit, in whose honor, shrines are weak, 
Uprearerd of human hands." 

Moore also takes the Persian religion and the 
persecution of its followers by Mohammedans, as 
the subject of his poem — the "Fire Worshippers." 

It is said that the Parsis of the present day ob- 
ject to the designation — "Fire Worshippers." They 
still wear the sacred shirt and girdle, as in the days 
of the A vesta, and they have erected in Bombay — 
"Dakhmas" — "Towers of Silence," upon which to 
expose the bodies of their dead. These Towers stand 
within inclosures. Inside each inclosure is also a 
house of prayer for relatives, and a temple where 



India 1 23 

the sacred fire is kept always burning. The bodies 
are clothed in white, and the friends who follow, 
also wear white garments. The bodies are placed 
on a high outer flooring, and the vultures and other 
birds of prey, that hover about these towers, flock 
down and strip away the flesh. When the bones are 
quite dry, they are collected and placed in a central 
well. There they soon become decomposed, and 
nothing remains but a crumbling powder. It seems 
a revolting custom, but in this, it is said, the Parsis 
adhere strictly to the doctrine of the Avesta, which 
is 

"That earth, fire and water must be carefully 
shielded from defilement by dead matter." 

Calcutta — And Its Social Life 

September 26. We spent most of the day with 
Mrs. C — s. First tiffin, then a drive, then dinner 
— all most delightful. There were several guests 
at dinner — among them four young Englishmen 
whom we had not previously met. 

September 27. Dined with Mr. and Mrs. F — s. 
Not many guests. A quiet homelike time. We 
had, nevertheless, the usual dinner of many courses, 
with many servants in attendance — the invariable 
custom here. Since our host and hostess and most 
of the guests were more or less familiar with Bos- 
ton, conversation naturally centered about that 
city. The drive back through broad Chowringhee 
Road was delightful. The evening calm, warm and 
moonlit. 

September 28th. Have been doing a little trad- 



124 ^ ^^^ Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

ing with one of the native merchants, Hosmadjee 
Canjee of Bombay. He had with him a varied as- 
sortment of ivory and sandal-wood ornaments. 
This evening a party at Mrs. H — s. Many of our 
recent acquaintances were there, also several of 
whom we had heard but had not seen. A game 
with fortune-telling cards was one feature of the 
entertainment. 

Sept. 29th. This has been a very hurried day, 
for a leisurely place like Calcutta. Callers in the 
morning; chits to write to various persons about 
conflicting invitations; another business interview 
with the Bombay merchant. In the afternoon, we 
went again to the "Seven Tanks." There were 
several carriage loads in the party. This time we 
easily gained admission to the house. It is very 
similar to Mullock's house in the city, as to its 
general plan and furnishing. In this, the main 
stairway is of solid mahogany, and is said to have 
cost eighty thousand rupees, which would be in our 
money, at the present valuation of a rupee, about 
forty thousand dollars. The walls were covered 
with pictures, similar to those in the other house. 
There was also a large and varied collection of 
musical instruments. One immense music box was 
wound up and set going for our entertainment. 

As we were walking through a narrow passage- 
way, leading to one of the gardens, three or four 
young Englishmen in military uniform, scaled a high 
wall, which enclosed it on one side, and dropped in- 
to M — 's. hands and mine several fragrant green 
sprays. 



India 125 

"It is rosemary," said one with smiling emphasis. 
The Captain was following closely behind, but I 
could not resist the desire to respond — albeit very 
softly "That's for remembrance." 

Sept. 30th. While M — . and I were dressing 
this morning, we heard voices in the living room. 
The Cromwell is to leave port today, and Captain 
S — s. had come to say "good-bye." Soon after Mr. 
L — ee, and Mr. C — n. also came. The latter is go- 
ing down the river with Captain S — s. to inhale a 
few whiffs of "salt sea-air." Later Najir came to tell 
the Captain that the Lizzie Oakford is below and to 
get a note of recommendation to Captain E — e. Mr. 
R — 1. dined with us, and spent most of the evening. 

October 2nd. Rajan came in while we were at 
breakfast, on a business errand. Later Mrs. F — s. 
called, also Captain E — e. who has just arrived. He 
is a near neighbor of ours at home. We have had 
an unusually quiet day. Found a little time for 
reading, and have been looking over "Counterparts" 
for the second time. 

Oct. 3rd. Another supply of cake from Captain 
K — 8. The last we shall have as his ship is nearly 
ready to leave port. Spent the evening with Mrs. 
Dr. F — s. A few other guests there. Some talk of 
an excursion to the Botanical Gardens, tomorrow. 

Oct. 4th. The excursion to the Gardens, in 
which is the immense Banyan tree, materialized this 
afternoon. M — . went with the Captain. Before 



126 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

the project was fairly decided upon, I had accepted 
an invitation for a drive elsewhere. I hope another 
opportunity will offer. To come to India and fail 
to see the largest Banyan tree in the world would 
be indeed an inexcusable blunder. Captain E — e. 
dined with us. 

October 5th. Captain K — s., Mr. C — n. and 
Mr. L — n. spent last evening here. Mr. C — n. had 
just returned from his trip down the river. The 
Cromwell went down without accident. Mr. 
B — d. was the pilot. He was the one we had com- 
ing up. Captain K — s. left us about ten o'clock. He 
was going on board his ship last night, as she leaves 
moorings this morning. About noon M — . and I 
called on Mrs. W. and Mrs. C. They are to leave 
Calcutta tomorrow. In the afternoon we drove to 
the Bazars, made some purchases, and later went on 
board the National Eagle and packed them. 

October 6th. This morning we went to the top 
of a monument, erected in honor of Sir David Och- 
terlony, — a British General. He was born in Bos- 
ton of Scotch ancestry. He went to India as a 
cadet, in 1777. In 1814 he was put in command 
of the English forces on the west of the Gurkha 
frontier and with great energy succeeded in putting 
down all opposition. The climb up was also by 
no means a sinecure on a hot day, but we were re- 
paid by the fine view thus obtained of the city and 
the fort. While we were driving this afternoon we 
met our pilot Mr. Bond. He was on horseback, but 
he at once rode up to our carriage, reined in his 



India 12? 

horse and greeted us. He said that he had spent the 
greater part of the last two months on the river, 
coming up and going down. He proposes to call on 
us tomorrow. 

October 8th. Mr. Bond called this morning — • 
handsome as ever, and as immaculately dressed. In 
the evening we walked in Eden Gardens. Met there 
Emma and Louise G — n. and Mr. L — c. Captain 
L — n. and Captain E — e. called. 

October loth. Spent the day with Mrs. G — n. 
Two other guests at tiffin, several others at dinner, 
and in the evening, a large party. M — . and I 
managed to glide through a number of quadrilles. 

Oct. nth. We were invited to a breakfast on 
board the Ship Eddystone, this morning. The Cap- 
tain pleaded important business, as a reason for not 
taking us, so we were obliged to decline. In the 
evening we again walked in Eden Gardens. There 
is, in one part, a Burmese Temple, removed, it is 
said, from the City of Prome, and brought here in 
1854. 

October 12th. The rainy season is about over, 
and the weather is becoming daily more delightful. 
It is warm, but not oppressively so. The foliage 
is soft and green, like that of early summer. The 
flowering shrubs, which were somewhat parched 
and drooping during the intense heat, are now put- 
ting forth fresh blossoms, and the planting of seeds 
and bulbs is going on. The dreamy haze of the 



128 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

atmosphere, however, reminds me of mid-autumn 
days at home — our "Indian summer," as we call it. 
The gay "society season" is also just beginning 
here. Last evening a large select party was given, 
and there were also two or three balls. There is 
to be a very fine ball, I am told, on the 17th of 
this month. 

October 14th. Went to a service at the Scotch 
Church this morning. Captain E — e dined with 
us. Several callers in the evening. Ever since our 
arrival, I have been seeking for information about 
the Thackerays, and their manner of life in India. 
It seems diflfiicult to get definite information. Wil- 
liam Makepeace Thackeray — the grandfather of the 
novelist, whom we know by that name, came out in 
the days of the old East Indian Company. He was 
appointed collector of revenues, in one of the dis- 
tricts; and it is reported that he also bought 
elephants of the natives, and sold them to the gov- 
ernment. He had eleven children, several of whom 
attained maturity, which is surprising when one 
considers the intense heat, combined with the fever 
and cholera germs lurking in the, then, undrained 
marshes of the region. One of the sons, Richmond 
Thackeray, was the father of the future novelist. 
He was at that time secretary to the Board of 
Revenue of the Bengal Government, and was liv- 
ing in Calcutta. His son was born in July, 181 1. 
He was named for his grandfather, and was 
christened, it is said, in the old cathedral of St. 
John. We have been twice to a service there, and 
this seems to me a link — very slight of course — with 



India 129 

one, over whose printed pages, I have spent so 
many hours. Several months later Richmond 
Thackeray was appointed collector of an important 
district, and moved to Alipore, a suburb of Cal- 
cutta. There, he is reported to have had a large 
house, filled with fine furniture and a wonderful 
collection of curios. He entertained lavishly, and 
"with his costly carriages and fast horses, came to 
be regarded as quite a nabob." But this gay man- 
ner of life was not of long duration. In 1815, he 
died, leaving a young widow, and the little William 
Makepeace Thackeray, then about four years old. 
Two years later, in 181 7, the latter was sent to 
England to be educated. He went in a sailing ves- 
sel, around the Cape of Good Hope, as every one 
had to do in those days, and there seems to be no 
evidence of any return to India. During those six 
years, however, many impressions must have been 
made upon the plastic mind of childhood, and many 
memories had doubtless been stored away, since he 
made use of them later in his novels and essays, — 
in the Newcomes for instance, and in some of the 
Roundabout papers. 

October 17th. This morning Mr. Bond called 
for us, and took us to various public buildings in 
the city. We went first to the "Town Hall," 
Many natives were engaged in decorating it with 
flags and flowers, for the "Ball," which is to be held 
there this evening. In one of the rooms, is a full 
length portrait of Queen Victoria, and Prince Al- 
bert. We met there the commissioner of Police, and 
had a little conversation with him. We went next 
to the Exchange, where we saw many fine things, 



I30 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

and then to Thacker and Spinks Library and Pic- 
ture gallery. We called at Wilson's Hotel, where 
we were treated to ice-cream — and ice-cream is 
something of a luxury in Calcutta. It may well be 
considered so, when the ice for freezing it has to be 
brought across the Atlantic and the Indian Oceans 
— the Bay of Bengal and up the Ganges river. 
From the hotel we went to the large establishment 
of Allan and Haynes, where we saw much fine jew- 
elry and a profusion of precious stones. A small 
gold watch, which had on the outside a portrait of 
Queen Victoria, set round with diamonds, was said 
to be worth thirty-five hundred rupees. We were 
also shown a collection of costly and curious articles 
formerly belonging to wealthy natives. Among 
them was a gold box, within which, was a little bird. 
Upon touching a spring the bird would fly out, and 
sing in the sweetest bird notes, imaginable, at the 
same time, turning his head slightly from side to 
side. When the song was ended, the bird would fly 
into the box, and the lid would close as suddenly as 
it had opened. Mr. Haynes said the price of it was 
fifteen hundred rupees. We were also shown a 
pair of trousers, once belonging to the Queen of 
Delhi, and worn by her. 

We went back with Mr. Bond to tiffin^ where 
we met Mrs. Bond, a charming English woman, and 
their two young children. Although the women in 
Calcutta clothe themselves in fine raiment, the 
young children are not burdened with superfluous 
clothing. One thin, scant, white garment seems to 
be about all that they wear. On their feet are san- 
dals or low shoes, but no stockings. As, notwith- 



India 131 

standing the heat, they seem to be healthy and ac- 
tive, this costume is doubtless found to be hygienic- 
There were other guests besides ourselves at tiffin. 
We regretted that we could not remain for dinner, 
but we had to decline on account of a previous en^ 
gagement. On the way back to our rooms, we drove 
again to the Town Hall to see the illuminations. 
All the pillars were hung round with little lights 
so that they looked like pillars of fire. Over the top 
was a transparency, representing a steam engine with 
cars attached; rather a prosaic subject it seemed to 
us. Within the Hall was another Transparency — 
Lord Canning's coat of arms. Lord Canning is the 
present Governor General of British India. He 
lives in the Government House erected by the Mar- 
quis of Wellesley, during his term of office. 

We dined at Mrs. H — ^y's. Dr. H — s. was there 
and several other guests. Mr. W — n. who is an 
employe of the British Government, has succeeded 
in getting leave of absence on the plea of illness. He 
is to take with him to England quite a collection of 
beautiful things which he has been buying as oppor- 
tunity offered, and he brought them in to show to 
u,s. He has rich cashmere shawls, fine jewelry, 
curious coins, fans, boxes, card-cases, and other small 
trinkets. Mr. L — n. who has just received a large 
diamond, as a gift, brought it in for our inspection. 

October 19th. Mr. B — d. called this morning 
to say "good-bye," as he is to take a ship down the 
river tomorrow. He says if it is possible, he will 
come to see us at the Sand Heads. Isher Chun 
Desoy came in about noon, bringing flowers, and 



132 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

two rolls of pina-cloth, one of blue, the other of 
lavendar, — gifts from him, for M — . and for me. 
We can have lovely summer gowns made out of this 
material. Mr. I^— ee. and Mr. C — n., called later, 
and in the afternoon, Mr. C — n. came for me to 
drive with him to the Botanical Gardens. The day 
was warm, yet not too warm, and so calm that not 
a leaf seemed to stir. The gardens were as quiet 
as our Autumn woods at home. We were appar- 
ently the only visitors. The big Banyan tree is 
of course the central attraction. At first it seems 
like a grove with trees at suitable intervals; but 
when one realizes that it is self-propagating, capable 
of extending itself, without help from man, not only 
into a grove, but, with time, into a forest, orderly 
and symmetrical, the wonder of it grows and grows. 
The branches send down shoots, which take root 
in the earth, and then shoot up into stems or trunks, 
— a tree in this way spreading over a large surface. 
It is said to be a species of the genus fig. The 
leaves are heart-shaped, and the fruit, which is 
about the size of a cherry, grows in pairs, from 
the axils of the leaves. The wood is said to be 
light and porous and not of much value. A tonic 
is made from the bark, quite generally used in the 
regions where it grows. The trees attain a height 
of from seventy to one hundred feet. This one, in 
the Botanical Garden, is thought to be the largest in 
the world, and its age, not far from a century. 

After we had wandered about the gardens for 
awhile, we came back to the Banyan tree, and took 
possession of some convenient seats which we had 
noticed there. The soft afternoon sunshine filtered 



India 133 

down between the boughs with caressing touches. 
Now and then a bird twittered drowsily. The spell 
of the scene was upon us. At first we were very 
quiet. But soon, too soon, we found ourselves in 
the midst of a most interesting heart to heart inter- 
view. 

We returned from our drive just in time for din- 
ner. Mr. C — n. is to start early tomorrow morning 
for another trip down the river, so I shall probably 
not see him again. The National Eagle is now 
nearly loaded with a mixed cargo, consisting large- 
ly of Linseed Gunny bags and jute, with some salt 
petre, cutch and castor oil. Other exports from 
here, are rice, tea, coffee, opium and indigo. 

October 20th. The Captain gave a tiffin party 
on board the ship today. All her flags, signals and 
streamers, were used for decoration, surmounted by 
the "Stars and Stripes," and an English flag in hon- 
or of some of the guests. These lent a bright and 
festal air to the scene. A large awning was stretched 
over the upper deck, as a protection from the direct 
rays of the sun. The steward prepared a fine 
spread, and our guests appeared to consider it a 
unique and delightful function. After they 
left we went for a drive, our last one, probably, as 
we expect to go on board the ship Monday. 

October 21st. Attended a service this morning 
at the Wellesley Street Church. Guests to tiffin, 
and several callers in the evening. Between whiles, 
packed what we could. 

October 22nd. This morning we made several 
farewell calls. After tiffin, took leave of Mrs. 



134 ^ Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

H — g. and her daughters, and about half after four 
left the very pleasant rooms, which have served as 
home for two months. We drove to Garden Beach, 
and taking a dinghy, were soon on board the ship. 
The afternoon was calm and bright, and Calcutta 
looked more enchanting than ever, as we bade it 
"good bye." 

I hoped that we might go from here to Bombay 
before returning to Boston. Many ships do that. 
The National Eagle sometimes does. Bombay, is 
not, I suppose, quite so fine a city as Calcutta, but 
it has, I judge, more of India's peculiar characteris- 
tics. Some one has said, "He, that would bring 
home the wealth of the Indies, must carry the wealth 
of the Indies with him." 

I fear that I was not sufficiently familiar with In- 
dian lore before coming, to get all that I might have, 
out of this visit. Another has said: 

"You. will never know India, until you have seen 
Benares." 

Benares is the "Holy City of the Hindus." It 
is supposed to be very ancient. In the traditions of 
the country, it is believed to have been "coeval with 
creation." It is situated on the left bank of the 
Ganges, some four hundred miles or more, north- 
west of Calcutta. Such a trip would have been 
quite impossible during this visit. Will it ever be 
possible? I can but hope. 



THE HOMEWARD PASSAGE 

October 23rd. The pilot Mr. F. — . came on 
board last evening. Captain L — n. and Captain 
B — s. came also bringing several books for us to 
read on the homeward passage. 

About midnight I heard the pilot go to the Cap- 
tain's room and ask for a roll of bandage. He said 
that his native servant had fallen from the upper 
deck in his sleep and had broken his arm. 

We could not start this morning, as we expected 
to do, because the steamboat which was to take us 
in tow had not returned from its trip down the 
river. The Captain went back to the city, and pro- 
cured an order from Mr. Linzee, to the Captain of 
each boat, so that we might take which ever one 
came first. About five o'clock this afternoon, a 
boat came up the river and passed us. Mr. C — n. 
and Mr. F — d. were on board and we exchanged 
greetings. She was followed almost immediately by 
the Sestos, the boat which had been engaged for us. 

October 24th. On the Ganges river again. We 
started early this morning. M — . and I sat on deck 
looking at the tropical foliage, so bright and fresh 
in the clear sunshine. About noon, we passed over 
the "James and Mary" without accident. Soon af- 
ter we overtook the Lucknow. Mr. G — m. was sit- 
ting on deck. We waved our handkerchiefs until 
we could see his no longer. They are sailing down. 
We have met two ships going up the river. One was 
135 



136 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

the "Dragoon" of which Mr. R — t. told us in New 
Orleans. We are now anchored at Kulpee^ where 
we shall remain until tomorrow morning. 

October 26th. Yesterday we came down to 
Cowcally which is just below Kedgeree. We did 
not come over the Caspar this morning, but took 
another channel. We are now, — at two o'clock in 
the afternoon — off the Sand Heads, with no land 
in sight. Mr. F — , the pilot, has just gone. We 
are a long distance from the Pilot Brigs. Mr. 
Bond will not be able to call and bid us good-bye, 
even if he is on board of one of them. Calcutta 
with its charming people, its interesting sights, 
novel customs and pleasant associations, is now 
fairly left behind. 

What a problem this India is! When one first 
comes, one's sympathy is all with the natives. The 
contrast is so extreme between their manner of 
living, and that of the English residents. Some 
one has said, that: 

"England is the paradise of women, the hell of 
horses, and the purgatory of servants." If this can 
be affirmed of the English in their own land, surely 
it may apply with even more force to the English 
in India. 

The latter live in large high ceiled houses of 
many rooms. Their tables are loaded with all the 
staple articles of food, and with the luxuries of this 
and other countries. They clothe themselves in the 
finest fabrics. They drive about in luxurious car- 
riages, seldom walking, except for a short stroll 
in a park or garden. The native population, with 



The Homeward Passage I37 

the exception of a fcAv high-caste wealthy nabobs, 
baboos and priests, appear to be extremely indigent. 
They live in miserable hovels, often two or more 
families under one roof. They have, as a rule, but 
two meals a day, and those are comparatively light 
ones. Rice and curry is the staple article with green 
herbs, and the cheaper varieties of fruit. Their 
clothing is simple and inexpensive — scant garments 
of white cotton goods, the product of the country, 
made year after year, without any change of style. 
Some of them patter about in loose sandals, but 
usually their feet are as bare as nature made them. 
Moreover all the heavy and disagreeable labor of 
the city and its neighborhood, falls upon them. 

And this, all this, is in India — their own coun- 
try, the land of their birth, the land of their ances- 
tors! Is there any justice or humanity in such a 
state of affairs? It is seldom that a newcomer fails 
to ask this question ! It seems a pertinent and burn- 
ing one. But customs of long standing acquire a 
certain dignity. Familiarity with existing usuages, 
tends to make them less noticeable. Their appeal 
becomes weaker and gradually the sense of respon- 
sibility is lulled. The enervating heat of the coun- 
try is not conducive to vigorous action either of 
mind or body. There are also other aspects of the 
matter, and something to be said for those. The 
sparse diet, micntioned, is not entirely due to lack of 
means for one more substantial. The kindly fol- 
lowers of Buddha think it wrong to deprive any 
animal of life, consequently they do not make use 
of them for food. The sentiment is so strong, that 
it includes even those which are known to be dan- 



138 J Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

gerous to mankind. This is said to be one of the 
reasons, why India has been overrun with poisonous 
serpents, and death-dealing animals. Even in Cal- 
cutta, on quiet evenings, we could hear the howling 
of jackals and other wild beasts in the adjacent 
plains. Then, on account of the caste system, the 
Hindus are not a united people. The higher castes 
regard those of lower castes as entirely inferior. 
It would seem indeed easier for an Englishman and 
a native to affiliate than for Hindus of differing 
castes. The British Government moreover, though 
doubtless something of a task-master, does extend 
a protecting hand over its dependencies. Formerly 
the different provinces were often at war with each 
other. Now their difficulties must be settled in an- 
other way. Under their own management, seasons 
of famine and epidemic were liable to occur. Now 
these are found to be largely preventable, by the 
adoption of modern sanitary measures. 

October 28th. Fine weather. Not much wind; 
only a "six knot breeze" — to use a sailor phrase. The 
ship moves so easily over the waves, that neither 
M — . nor I have had so much as a twinge of mal 
de mes. In some moods, I dread the long voyage be- 
fore us. In others I look forward to it with a cer- 
tain satisfaction. There will be long quiet days, 
with no special demand upon time or attention. The 
glittering pageant and multitudinous life of a fasci- 
nating foreign city has made a strong appeal; and 
now the immensity and lonely grandeur of old 
Ocean will, I am sure, make its appeal, if only 
mind and heart can be kept in a receptive attitude. 



The Homeward Passage 139 

The use of travelling as some one has said, "Is to 
regulate imagination by reality, and instead of think- 
ing how things may be, — to see them as they are." 

November 4th. Fine weather ever since I last 
wrote. There have been days, when one could 
truthfully say, 

"O happy ship, 

To rise and dip 
With the blue crystal, at your lip. 

O happy crew 

My heart with you. 
Sails and sails, and sings anew." 

M — . and I have spent much time on deck. We 
have read and sewed, and have also superintended 
the making of banana preserves. Immense bunches 
of them were taken on board just before leaving 
port. Some of them were quite green. These were 
hung up to ripen in the air and sunshine. Every one 
has feasted upon them, from the Captain down. 
Even the men of the crew have had their fill. But 
the weather is so warm, that they could not be kept 
much longer, so we have utilized them by making a 
preserve to be eaten on the passage. 

Our two fan-tailed pigeons have flown away, 
lured by the charming weather, doubtless. This 
morning the sailors caught a porpoise. Two ships 
are in sight. 

November 5th. We saw a dolphin today for the 
first time. The dolphin is regarded by mariners as a 



140 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

weather-wise fish. If, during a gale or storm at sea, 
they see one or more of them sporting on the waves, 
they think the end of it is near. 

"A school of dolphins, tumbling in wild glee, 
Glowed with such orient tints, they might have been, 
The rainbow's offspring, when it meets the Ocean." 

Exchanged signals with the "Ravenseraig" an Eng- 
lish ship. 

November 9th. "Crossed the line," last night. 
We are now in Southern latitude. We are also, I 
suppose out of the Bay of Bengal and upon the In- 
dian Ocean. To a novice, boundary lines on the 
ocean are not very distinctly defined. It is warm 
and calm. 

November 13th. We met with a sad loss yester- 
day — the loss of our dear pet kitten. We missed her 
after supper, and upon inquiry, found that no one 
had seen her since noon. We looked everywhere, 
and called and called at intervals throughout the 
evening. This day has also passed without any 
sign of her, so I suppose she must have found a 
grave in the deep dark water, like most of our other 
pets. We miss her, more than any one could sup- 
pose, who does not know from experience the mo- 
notony of a long voyage. 

November 29th. Yesterday we passed a ship. She 
was in sight this morning, but we have left her be- 
hind. We are now in latitude 26° 18' South, and 



The Homeward Passage 141 

in longitude 52° 6' East. This is, I suppose, 
Thanksgiving day at home. As such we have been 
trying to keep it here. This morning M — . made 
some cake — a variety that we like especially. We 
had for dinner a roast of ducks, a meat pie, boiled 
yams — a very palatable substitute for potatoes, — ap- 
ple sauce, mixed pickles, plum pudding, mince and 
squash pies. The weather is fine, and we are hav- 
ing beautiful moonlight evenings. 

December ist. The first day of summer in this 
region, of winter at home. There is a strong breeze 
and it is somewhat cooler. 

December 7th. Nothing of much interest to 
chronicle, since I wrote last. We are nearing the 
Cape of Good Hope. Saw the first Cape Pigeon 
today. 

December 15th. Around the Cape at last. We 
passed it yesterday morning. Have seen only that 
solitary pigeon. We are not far enough south for 
them, the Captain says. About noon today, we 
saw a ship astern. She had a great spread of can- 
vas, and seemed to be rushing over the waves. She 
gained on us very fast and about five o'clock this 
afternoon, passed us. It was the Clipper Ship — 
Phantom of Boston. She glided away from us like 
a phantom indeed. The Captain said she was mak- 
ing thirteen knots an hour. 

"A stately ship 
With all her bravery on, and tackle trim. 
Sails filled and streamers waving." 



142 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

December 2ist. Delightful weather, but very 
light winds. Yesterday we saw a ship ahead. This 
morning we found it to be the Eddystone, com- 
manded by Captain Grant. The two Captains have 
held quite a conversation. The Eddystone left the 
Sand Heads about the time we did, and passed the 
Cape of Good Hope the same day. We have been 
sailing only a little distance apart, throughout the 
afternoon. We could hear the bells struck on board 
of her. It seems quite like having a neighbor. We 
are drawing a little in advance now, but unless 
the wind freshens, shall probably not lose sight of 
her for a day or two. 

December 25th. Christmas. The Captain call- 
ed us early this morning, telling us that we were 
near the island of St. Helena. We dressed hastily 
and went on deck. The island, as we first saw it, 
had the appearance of a dark purple cloud. The 
sun was partially veiled by mist, the wind came in 
gusts, and the deck was wet with a fine rain. Pres- 
ently, as the mist rolled upward, hills and low 
mountain peaks, flushed with morning light be- 
came visible. Soon all grew dim again, and we 
could see that rain was falling there, though we 
were having none just then. The Captain said 
that he was intending to pass around the western 
side of the island, so that we could see the harbor 
and town. The wind "was scant" however, and 
he though it best to sail along the southeastern 
coast, although we could not get so good a view. 
We went down to breakfast, and when we returned 
to the deck, we found that the point of view had 



The Homeward Passage 143 

changed somewhat. We could see, on one of the 
hills, what the Captain said, was a Signal-house, 
also in the valley below, several farm houses, and 
in the harbor a few ships. 

On the voyage from India to Boston or New 
York, the island of St. Helena, makes a conven- 
ient stopping place for replenishing water casks, or 
taking in extra stores, if needed. I had cherished 
a secret hope, that some such luck might make a 
call from us expedient. It would have been intense- 
ly interesting, to walk in the very places, where 
Napoleon had walked ; to look out beyond the hills 
and across the waves, where he had gazed, brood- 
ing over the mischances, which had taken him, from 
an apparently brilliant destiny, to this rock-encir- 
cled, ocean-guarded island. 

The National Eagle, however had been much too 
liberally fitted out, to make such a break in the 
passage needful, unless her progress were impeded 
by unusual stress of weather. I had therefore to 
content myself with this very cursory view. It had, 
nevertheless, some value. It re-awakened the his- 
torical interest of school days, and gave for the 
time, a new turn to thought and conversation. 

Except for the excitement of seeing St. Helena, 
the day has seemed much like any other day. The 
sailors were very merry last evening. They sang 
their chanties, and they also had a variety of instru- 
ments, a banjo, castanets and drums, some of which 
they made for the occasion. This morning they came 
forward with the request that they might have a 
holiday which the Captain granted. They have been 
very quiet however. 



144 ^ Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

January 5th. Nothing of much interest to re- 
cord, since I wrote last. The weather fairly pleas- 
ant with light winds. I have read and sewed so 
constantly, that my eyes have "gone on a strike." 
M — . and I are now trying to walk a mile a day. 
We know the length of the upper deck, and we walk 
back and forth times enough to make that distance. 
It seems a long and monotonous mile. To vary it, 
we sometimes walk in opposite directions, and when 
we meet, we stop and accost each other, as we would 
if we were meeting on a street. It is a harmless by- 
play, very amusing apparently to the Captain and 
Mr. B— n. 

January i8th. Latitude 15° 33' South; Longi- 
tude, 50° 18' West. Just where we should have 
strong "trade winds" the Captain says, and instead 
we have almost a calm. M — . and I continue our 
walking on deck, whenever the weather is suitable. 

As we traverse day after day these lonely leagues 
of ocean, I realize as never before, not only the en- 
terprise, but also the romance, connected with com- 
merce. How commonplace, apparently have been 
the cargoes which the National Eagle has carried 
from port to port, on this voyage. Bales of cotton, 
hundreds and thousands of them, one just like an- 
other ; salt, very necessary, }^et in bulk most unat- 
tractive, tons and tons of it, poured into the ship's 
hold, like sand of the desert; gunny bags and jute, 
saltpetre and castor oil, — useful articles doubtless, 
but surely not such as appeal to the imagination. Yet 
to transport these and similar products, from one 
country to another, this fine large ship has been built 
at great expense, and with much thought and labor. 



The Homeward Passage 145 

"A beautiful and gallant craft 
Broad in the beam, and sloping aft, 
Built for freight and yet for speed." 

Towering trees of the forest — the soundest, the 
sturdiest, — "cedars of Maine and Georgia pine," 
chestnut and elm and oak, — have given their lives, 
to furnish her massive hull, her tall tapering masts, 
her slender spars. The ropes, many and various, — 
braces, bowlines, halyards, shrouds, stays, — compar- 
atively inconspicuous, yet most essential have been 
thoroughly tested, for upon their strength and sup- 
pleness, unmarred by any flaw, much may depend. 
Rudder and tiller, helm and anchor, carefully shap- 
ed and strongly forged, so that she may be safely 
guided and guarded in her passages across the sea. 

"The awful, pitiless sea, 
With all its terror and mystery, 
The dim, dark sea, so like unto death, 
That divides, and yet unites mankind." 

And last, thought by no means least, the flying 
cloud of canvas firmly and finely woven, gleaming 
in the sunshine, fluttering in the breeze, — the crown 
and culmination of her beauty — shaking and strain- 
ing when the wind is high, yet holding fast, and 
bearing her ever onward, like the swift white wings 
of a bird. Thus equipped, is she not indeed a ro- 
mantic object? 

And when she is fitted and furnished with all the 
interior belongings, needed to make her a comfort- 
able abiding place, a sort of second home, so to 
speak, for those who may spend weeks, months, even 



146 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

years on board of her, is she not also an embodiment 
of man's far-seeing vision, — a result of his dream 
or desire or belief — whatsoever it may be termed — 
that the area which he can see with his eyes, or 
traverse with his limbs, is not the world, the whole 
world? Was it not such a vision, that led Colum- 
bus, Ponce de Leon, Americus Vespucius, 
Sir Francis Drake, and other explorers, to em- 
bark upon unknown seas, trusting that the inspira- 
tion which led them on, would sooner or later be 
justified by realization? 

Is there not also in these later years romance 
connected with the ocean and with commerce? Is 
not every seaman's life more or less a romance ? He 
takes leave, we will say, of his New England or 
New York home, and embarks for some appointed 
port. The ship which he commands, or in which 
he sails, carries a cargo that is wanted or supposed 
to be wanted, in the port to which he is bound. It 
may be in America, Europe, Asia, Africa or some 
far island of the sea. If all goes well, the ship may 
return' from there, or she may go on to another 
port, or to several ports, wherever the most mar- 
ketable freights can be obtained. In pursuit of his 
calling he will visit unfamiliar shores. The 
language spoken will be unknown to him. The 
manners, customs, religious rites, will all seem 
strange. Even the food may be quite unlike that to 
which he is accustomed. He will know the 

"Chance and change of a sailor's life, 
Want and plenty, rest and strife; 
And the magic charm of foreign lands, 
With shadows of palm, and shining sands." 



The Homeward Passage 147 

If all goes well ! But all may not go well ! "Over- 
due" and "missing," are tragic words to those who 
comprehend their import. And, alas! they are far 
too-familiar! Many a ship has foundered in mid- 
ocean taking down with her Captain and crew. Not 
one is left to tell the tale, and sorrowing friends 
wonder and weep over the mystery, that can never 
be explained — at least in this life. 

Others have been driven ashore on rocky ledges, 
or stranded on desert coasts. There the men face 
impending famine, with small chance of relief or 
rescue. Others, perhaps escape in the boats, and 
drift about upon the ocean, their scanty stock of 
water and "hard-tack" daily diminishing, until they 
must perforce row for the nearest land that can be 
discerned above the waves. There, they encounter 
perhaps, savage tribes, and the story of their adven- 
tures may almost equal those of Marco Polo, or 
Baron Munchausen, even with a much greater re- 
gard for truth. 

Commerce has indeed its romantic phases. Ships 
and seamen are its factors. Labor, hardship and 
danger are its accompaniments. Experience, variety, 
and information, are its rewards. 

Januar}' 23rd. The trade winds are here at last. 
During the preceding twenty-four hours, we have 
made two hundred and thirty (230) miles. Just 
two weeks from today, is the time that I have set 
for our arrival in Boston. 

January 27th. Our strong trades continued until 
last night. We have now a "northwester" — not a 



148 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

very fiery one however. This morning we were 
nearly in the latitude of Bermuda. There were some 
fine evenings last week; beautiful moonlight, and 
the waves in such a tumult. The weather is becom- 
ing cooler. Thermometer stands at 74° today. 

January 30th. The northwester, which I men- 
tioned, when I last wrote, increased during the 
night and became a gale. It changed to west, and 
then back to northwest. Most of the sails had to 
be reefed and a "head sea" made it quite uncomfort- 
able. 

"There is no sorrow that man has known 
Like the grief of the wordless main, 
Whose Titan bosom forever throbs 
With an untranslated pain." 

We have passed the brig Selma of New York, 
and also a barque, both "lying to." Mr. B — . said 
the latter might be a whaling vessel homeward 
bound. The thermometer stands at 60°. M — . 
and I have been making sails for G — s. little ship. 

February ist. Cold and cloudy, with a "head 
sea," and frequent showers, of rain and hail. We 
had a fire in the cabin for the first time on this pas- 
sage. It seemed very cosy. The steward gave us 
our last ducks for dinner today. We have had a 
roast of ducks for dinner every Sunday and every 
holiday during the homeward passage. From lack 
of exercise and much feeding they had become very 
fat, and we have been getting a bit tired of them. 



The Homeward Passage 149 

February 2nd. The Captain says that we are 
on "Soundings," and he shall run for Cape Cod. 
The wind is fair, but it is so strong, and the showers 
are so heavy, that it is not considered safe to carry 
"all sail." We are going about ten knots an hour. 
M — . and I watch the compass and the barometer 
closely. The barometer continues to fall. 

February 3rd. The Captain remained, most of 
the night, on deck. The wind was "dead ahead" 
with signs of a heavy snowstorm. At one o'clock 
A. M. Nauset Light was made. At four, we passed 
Highland Light. At ten came up with a pilot boat 
and took a pilot. The Captain says that we shall 
not get to the pier until tomorrow morning, but — 
our passage is made — one hundred days from Cal- 
cutta — just the time M — . set for it. The pilot 
brought with him several Boston papers and com- 
paratively recent news from home friends, exceed- 
ingly welcome after an interval of five months. Our 
last letters received in Calcutta, had been two 
months "en route," and we have been a little over 
three months on the homeward passage. 

Ship National Eagle 

From Calcutta towards Boston. George 
Matthews, Master. 

Oct. 24. Anchored at Garden Beach. The 
pilot, Mr. Fielder, and all hands on board, ready 
for sea. The steamer Sestos came down from the 
city and took us in tow. Weighed anchor and 
proceeded down river. At 2.30 P. M. anchored 
at Kulpee. The day ends cahn and pleasant. 



150 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

October 25. At 7.30 A. M. the Sestos again 
took us in tow. Proceeded down the Bangafullo 
Channel. Anchored again at 11.45 at Cowcally. 
The day ends with light air from the South. 

Oct. 26. At 6 A. M. the Sestos again took us 
in tow. Weighed anchor and proceeded to sea by 
the Western Channel — (westward of the eastern 
sea-reef). I close this day with 12 hours, and turn 
from civil to sea account. 

Oct. 27. Comes in with a fine breeze from the 
North and Eastward. Pleasant weather. At 1.45 
P. M. the pilot and steamer both left the ship. The 
Light-Ship at the Sand Heads bearing by compass 
Northeast by Eastward % East, and the South 
Sand Head Buoy Northwest by West ^ West, 
about 2 miles distant. From 3 P. M. to midnight, 
very little wind. Ship drifting, without steerage 
way. Warm, a gentle breeze from the Northward 
and fine weather. Ends the same. Men employed 
in whitewashing potatoes and yams. 

Latitude, observatory at noon, 19° 28' North. 
Longitude by Chronometer, 87° 55' East. 

Oct. 28th. Commences with light Northerly 
wind and clear weather. Took anchors in upon 
the top-gallant forecastle; chains below, and secur- 
ed everything about deck, ready for unpleasant 
weather. Middle and latter part fine, with breeze 
from the Westward. 

Latitude observatory at noon, 17° 08' North. 
Longitude by Chronometer 86° 16' East. 
Barometer 29, 68 at noon. 



The Homeward Passage 151 

Oct. 30. Throughout this 24 hours light North- 
westwardly winds with fine weather and a very 
smooth sea. Two men on the sick list and several 
complaining. 

Oct. 31st Light Northwestwardly breeze with 
fine weather and smooth sea. All drawing sail set. 
Several of the crew ailing, but none very sick. Em- 
ploy the others in light work about the ship until 
the men get to rights again. 

Nov. 1st. Throughout this 24 hours, light: 
Northwestwardly winds, with dry weather and 
smooth sea. A ship off our starboard beam, steer- 
ing to the Southward. At noon she was about 4 
miles astern. 

Nov. 2nd. First and middle part light North- 
westerly winds. Noon calm. Ends with light air 
from the Westward. Our company keeper in sight 
off our port quarter. Crew about all right again. 
Employed in turning in the fore-rigging afresh. 

Nov. 4th. First part, light air from northward. 
Middle part calm. Latter part light air from 
South and Westward with dry hot weather, i knot 
Southerly current, this 24 hours. Our company 
keeper still in sight, and another sail coming up . 

Nov. 5th. Light air from the Southward and 
very hot. Thermometer 88 in shade in cabins. No 
current this 24 hours. The sailors caught a por- 
poise. 



152 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

Nov. 6th. Begins calm and very hot. At 3 P. M. 
had a squall from the North and Westward. It 
lasted about an hour, and then fell calm again. Ends 
with light breeze and very warm. At 10.30 A, M. 
signalled the English ship Ravenscroft from Cal- 
cutta. Reports being out 9 days. We have been 
out II since our pilot left us at the Sand Heads. 

Nov. 8th. Throughout this 24 hours, brisk from 
the Westward with fine weather; ends moderate 
from the same. 

Latitude Observatory at noon, 1° 51' North. 
Longitude by Chronometer 84° 39' East. 

Barometer 29, 70 at noon. 

Nov. 9th. Throughout this 24 hours, gentle 
Southwest winds with a few rain squalls. Ends 
pleasant. 

Latitude Observatory at noon 1° 30' South. 

Longitude by Chronometer 86° 17' East. 

Barometer 29, 70 at noon. 

Have had 50 miles Easterly current. 

(From the last two entries it will be seen that on 
the 8th the Latitude was 51' north and on the 9th 
it was 1° 30' South, thus showing that during the 
24 hours from noon on Nov. 8th to noon on Nov. 
9th, we had to use a sea term, "Crossed the Line" — 
that is the equator.) 

Nov. nth. Light air from the West and South- 
ward attended with squalls of rain. Have caught 
within a day or two, about 600 gallons of fresh 
water, from off our after house over the cabins. No 
current this 24 hours. 



The Homeward Passage ' 153 

Nov, 1 2th. Throughout this 24 hours, light 
breezes from Southwest by South by West with fine 
dry weather. Turned up fore topmast back-stays. 
Have had about ^ knot South Southeast ^ East 
current. This evening missed our cat. Think she 
must have slipped overboard. 

Nov. 17. Throughout this 24 hours, strong 
trades from Southeast to South Southeast. Middle 
and latter part squally. Took in studding sails, roy- 
al flying jib and spanker. Single-reefed the main- 
sail and top-gallant sails. Split the main-royal and 
main top-gallant sail, and unbent them for repairs. 
No current this 24 hours. 

(From the above date, Nov. 17, the entries for 
about three weeks are very similar. Trade winds 
with fine weather, most of the time. Now and then 
occasional calms, squalls and variable winds are 
recorded — the latter chiefly during the last week.) 

Dec. 2nd. Commences brisk and clear from 
the Northeast. Middle part cloudy; wind North 
Northeast and spitting rain. At 3 A. M. took 
in studding-sails, and other light sails. At 4 A. M. 
the wind shifted suddenly to West Southwest. At 
6 A. M. tacked ship to North and Westward. 
Ends brisk and cloudy from Southward. Have had 
20 miles easterly current. 

Dec. 5th. First and middle part moderate from 
the Southeastward. Middle and latter part brisk 
from the same. 

Latitude observatory (indifEerent), 30° 58' at 
noon. 



154 •^ ^^^ Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

Latitude by Dead Reckoning, south, 31° 05' at 
noon. 

Longitude by Chronometer, 36° 30' East, 
Longitude by Dead Reckoning, 36° 3' East. 

Barometer, 29, 98 at noon. 

Dec. 9th. Commences with light wind from the 
Westward. Had a hog killed today. At midnight 
strong breeze from West Northwest and clear. 
At I A. M. began to shorten sail, and kept at 
it until morning. Brought ship down to 3 close- 
reefed top-sails, and reefed, main topmast stay-sail. 
The fore topmast stay-sail blew away. At 8 A. M. 
the wind shifted in a rain squall to West by South. 
Bore ship to the Northward. Ends with strong 
gales and short irregular sea, causing the ship to 
labor heavily. No perceptible current this 24 hours. 

Dec. 12. Commences with a gentle breeze from 
the Northeast with fine weather. At 2 P. M., the 
wind shifted in a squall to Northwest. Hauled in 
studding-sails, and braced up on starboard tack from 
7 P. M. to midnight. Then took in royals, top- 
gallant sails, reefed the mainsail and mizzen top- 
sail. Latter part moderate. Made all sail again 
and set out our port studding-sails. Have had 48 
miles of Southwest current this 48 hours. 

Dec. 14. Commences moderate from the East- 
ward. At 7 P. M. wind East Southeast. Mid- 
night brisk and pleasant from Southeast. Morning 



The Homeward Passage 155 

fresh breeze from Southward with passing clouds. 
At II A. M. set out port top-mast, top-gallant and 
royal studding sails. This morning passed the 
Longitude of the Cape, — 49 days out from the 
Sand Heads. 

Dec. 1 6th. First part, strong breeze from South 
Southeast with cloudy weather. At 2 P. M. made 
a sail astern coming up with us. At 6 P. M., she 
was abreast of us. She proved to be the Ship Phan- 
tom of Boston. She passed us within gunshot, go- 
ing I judge about 13 knots. We are going 10. 

Dec. 19th. Throughout this 24 hours, very light 
Southeast trades with cloudy weather. At noon, 
made a sail ahead, running down the trades. Ends 
light and overcast. 

Dec. 20th. Throughout this 24 hours, very light 
Trades from Southeast by South to Southeast by 
East. Fine weather and smooth sea. The sail 
ahead is now about 4 points off our Port Bow; 
can just see her courses from our deck. She has six 
topsails set, and is I think an American ship. 

Dec. 22nd. Commences with light Southeast 
Trades, and fine dry weather. At i P. M. came up 
with our company keeper, above mentioned. She 
proves to be the Ship Eddystone, Captain Grant, 
which left the Sand Heads, the 28th of October. 
We left the 26th. She has beaten us thus far on 
our passage 2 days. One of his Chronometers dif- 
fers this day from my own Chronometer 8-10 of a 



156 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

second. My Chronometer and the Ship's Chrono- 
meter are this day 16 seconds apart. His two are 
ij^ minutes apart. He has on board 2130 tons of 
cargo. We have 1957 tons. He is drawing 20 ft. 
We are drawing 21 feet. At 3 P. M. we passed 
across his Bow, and left him off our Port Quarter. 
Middle and latter part light Trades, with cloudy 
weather. At noon, the Eddystone about two leagues 
astern, dropping gradually. Ends as above. 

Dec. 25th. Commences with gentle Southeast 
Trades with cloudy weather. At 1.30 A. M. made 
the Island of St. Helena, by moonlight, about 43 
miles distant. At 8 A. M. when abreast of the Isl- 
and, with the Observatory at Jamestown bearing 
from us Northeast by North about 3 leagues dis- 
tant, made the longitude at 

Ship by my Chronometer. . 5° 52' 15" West 
Ship West of Observatory. . 4' 15" West 



5" 48' 00" West 
Longitude of Observatory by 

Bowditch 5° 45' 00" West 



My Chronometer puts us . . . 3' 00" West 
Made the Longitude of Ship 

by Ship's Chronometer . . 5° 48' 00" West 

Ship West of Observatory. . 4' 15" West 



Longitude of Observatory by 

Bowditch 5° 45' 00" West 



5° 43' 45" West 
5' cx)" West 
i' 15" West 



The Homeward Passage 157 

Ship's Chronometer puts us i' 15" too far East. 

Passed down the south side of the Island. Saw 
the Shipping at anchor in the harbor of Jamestown. 
One boat out, probably fishing. Christmas — a hol- 
iday. No work going on. 

Dec. 28. Throughout this 24 hours, light 
Trades, with fine weather. Beginning to clean 
and paint outside. 

Dec. 29. Light Trades and fine weather. All 
hands employed in cleaning and painting. Finished 
the outside this P. M. 

January ist. Gentle Southeast Trades. All hands 
employed in cleaning and painting the forecastle, 
forward house, spare anchors, etc. 

Jan. 5th. Commences moderate from South and 
East. At 8 A. M. had a squall of rain, with wind 
from Northeast. Took in the studding and other 
light sails. During the fine weather of the last 
few days, have about finished the painting. Some 
scraping and varnishing yet to do. Today unbent 
our old main-sail, upper and lower main topsails, 
and bent our best ones. 

Jan. 6. First part moderate from South and 
Eastward. At 3 P. M. passed two ships steering 
to the South, outward bound, running with lower 
top-mast, and top-gallant studding — sails out. At 
II A. M. a squall of wind and rain. Took in 



158 A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

royal-studding-sails. Ends with rain. I allow 24 
miles of westerly current this 24 hours. 

Jan. loth. First part moderate and overcast. At 
6.30 it began to rain, and this was soon attended 
with heavy thunder and lightning so sharp as to 
blind one for some time after. Puffs of wind from 
Southwest to South and then to Northeast. Took 
in studding sails, and all other light sails. Hauled 
up courses, and hauled down stay-sails. At 11 P. 
M. the wind struck fresh from the Northeast. 
Made all sail again by the wind. In the morning 
set topmast studding sails. Ends cloudy. No ob- 
servation for latitude. I allow i knot westerly cur- 
rent this 24 hours. Three men laid up. 

Jan. 1 2th. Throughout this 24 hours, gentle 
Northeast Trades, with fine weather. No current. 
Running through Tide-rips. Two of the men who 
have been laid off resumed duty today. 

Jan. 13th. Very light Trades, from Northeast 
to East with fine weather. This P. M. had a hog 
killed, weighing 9 score, or 181 when dressed. 
Rather warm weather to eat roast pork. Have one 
more left about the same size. 

Current J^ knot westerly. Running through 
Tide-rips. 

Jan. 17th. This 24 hours begins and ends with 
fine weather and light wind from East Northeast 
to East. All hands variously employed, getting oft 
our old sails, and bending new ones. Have been 
out 83 days since leaving the Sand Heads. 



The Homeward Passage 159 

Jan, 19th. Light airs and calms, from Northeast 
to Southeast. Gave our decks a coat of }^ bright 
varnish, and half raw paint oil. 

Jan. 2 1 St. This 24 hours brisk Trades from 
East Northeast with clear weather. Three sail in 
sight, running to the Westward, before the wind, 
probably for some of the Windward Islands, West 
India. Ends brisk and clear. 

Jan. 22nd. Strong Trades from East Northeast. 
This morning, saw a fore and aft schooner running 
before the wind to the Westward. At 9 A. M. 
passed a Barque steering by the wind with a deck- 
load of mules and horses on board and over them 
baled hay. 

Jan. 25th. Begins with strong breeze from East 
Southeast to Southeast with fine weather. Ends the 
same. Saw a brig and a schooner steering to the 
Westward, probably for the "Hole in the Wall." 

! 

Jan. 28th. First part moderate from the North- 
west. Middle part nearly calm. Latter part, brisk 
and squally. Took in all the light sails. Reefed 
top-gallant sails, mainsail and mizzen topsail. Split 
the inner jib. Unbent it and bent another. At 
noon came up with, and passed, within hailing dis- 
tance, the Brig Selma of New York. 

Jan. 30th. Commences moderate from the 
North and West. At 6 P. M. wind backened to 
West South westward. At 10 P. M. began to 



i6o A Sea Trip in Clipper Ship Days 

shorten sail and by 2 A. M. had her down to three 
close-reefed topsails, reefed foresail, reefed main 
top-mast and fore top-mast stay sails. Latter part 
a furious gale, with clear weather from West to 
West by South. Ends the same. Temperature of 
water, at 7 A. M. 72°. At noon 73°. Saw a 
barque at 10 A. M. laying to, on starboard tack. 

February ist. Commences with strong North- 
west gales and puffy. Morning more moderate. 
Ran out of the Gulf about 4 A. M. Saw a barque 
steering to Eastward. Ends brisk and pleasant 
from North Northwestward. 

Temperature of air at noon 39°. 

Temperature of water at noon 45°. 

Feb. 2nd. Commences brisk and fine from the 
North and Westward. At 8 P. M. moderate. At 
9 P. M. calm. At 11 P. M. light breeze from 
South to Eastward. Morning strong breeze from 
South with rain. Latter part strong gale from 
South by West to South Southwest, with rain. 

At 8 A. M. struck soundings in 28 fathoms — fine 
white sand. Ends with heavy gale from South 
Southeast. All hands employed in taking in sail. 

Feb. 3rd. Comes in with gale from South South- 
west with thick weather. At 2.30 P. M. sounded, 
46 fathoms — red and white sand. All hands em- 
ployed in getting chains up from below, ready for 
bending. At i A. M. made Nauset Light, bearing 
West at 3 A. M. Cape Cod Light bore West about 
3 leagues distant. At 9 A. M. was spoken by Pilot- 
boat No. 6. It had nothing on board, but a 20 fh. 
Branch consequently refused a ship drawing more 



The Homeward Passage i6i 

water. At lo A. M. got a pilot from Pilot Boat 
No. 5, Mr. Mackfield. Stood in to the westward. 
At 3 P. M. tacked to North Northeast off Scituate. 
Beat up and anchored in Light House channel at 
7,30 P. M. So ends this day of 36 hours, and this 
passage of lOQ days. 



THE ARRIVAL 

February 4th. M — . and I rose early this morn- 
ing, so that we might be on deck as we came up the 
harbor. The sky was leaden grey, and the air had 
that penetrating chill — sure precursor of a New 
England snow-storm. 

As we approached the pier, huge ware-houses of 
dull, red brick, be-spattered with dingy patches of 
ice and snow, loomed up before us. How dreary 
and dismal they looked, utterly devoid of grace and 
beauty — positively ugly. It was a discouraging spec- 
tacle. 

I chided myself vigorously, for such a view of the 
situation. Here we were, after a long absence, last- 
ing more than a year, back to the home land again, 
safe and well. Why should I be troubled by mater- 
ial surroundings. Nevertheless, Byron's lines, "The 
Isles of Greece," came unbidden to my mind. 

"Eternal summer gilds them yet." 

Eternal summer ! What beautiful, restful visions, 
the words inspired. I closed my eyes and revelled in 
them. Even the sound of them had a subtle charm. 

"That charm in words, a charm no words can give." 

At this point, without volition on my part, the 
next line insisted upon recognition. 

"But all, except their sun, is set." 
162 



The Arrival 163 

And as if that were not enough, a relentless New 
England conscience began to assert itself. 

"Eternal summer gilds them yet, 
But all except their sun has set." 

"Has not all, that is set there, risen here?" it 
asked. "Is not this the morning land, the land of 
freedom? Is it not a coveted land, for aspiration, 
for endeavor, for fulfilment? Oh, yes!" 

"For Greeks a blush, for Greece a tear; 
They have the letters Cadmus gave. 
Think ye, he meant them for a slave?" 

"A land of slaves, shall ne'er be mine. 
Dash down yon cup of Samian wine." 

About nine o'clock, we reached the pier, and 
there, saluting us with hat and handkerchief, stood 
Mr. Robinson, a large owner in the National Eagle, 
its business manager, and also, a most valued friend. 
He had been the last to bid us "bon voyage," more 
than a year ago, and now he was the first to greet 
us, on our return. The next minute he was on 
board, bringing letters and messages from relatives 
and friends, and also news of Boston and the out- 
side world. He had a covered sleigh on the wharf, 
and soon we were all driving over the icy streets, 
scarcely noting the outward dreariness, because of 
the friendly chat within. At his counting room, 
he and the Captain left us, while M — . and I were 
driven to his beautiful home, further on, where 
we were all to meet later at dinner. 



164 A Sea Trip i?i Clipper Ship Days 

The predicted storm came on apace — a wild 
tumult of wind, sleet and snow, but it mattered 
little to us, for we were snugly sheltered and lav- 
ishly entertained. After all — 

"Travel is no longer travel, unless finally we may 
turn us home." 



